Review - Le Beaujolais Cirencester

Le Beaujolais – Cirencester

After weeks of red, white and blue ‘Jubilee Mania’, eating British and Commonwealth inspired food in abundance, you may have forgotten that our near neighbours gave us the building blocks of our contemporary tastes in cookery. No cuisine is more influential than French.

Once-upon-a-time, traditional Bistro’s were to be found in every town, but with on-going trends towards international influences, homely French fare has become hard to find.  Of course there are “Franglais” style chains and expensive fine dining but I mourn the lack of authentic French restaurants offering “La Cuisine de Maman”. Thankfully, I was introduced to Le Beaujolais.

The two-floor establishment on Castle Street is simply and patriotically decorated. Tricolour bunting and a map of France adorn the wall. This is full-on Français, slightly stereotypical without feeling like a theme park. The restaurant was reassuringly packed with locals, including a Frenchman at the next table. I greedily eyed up his heaped bowl of bouillabaisse and resisted pouncing on him, demanding mussels and fish, topped with Sauce Rouille.

I ordered Cuisses de Grenouille (Frogs Legs) and a couple of fine specimens were placed before me, dripping in garlic parsley butter. Anyone who tells the uninitiated that Frogs Legs taste of chicken is being inaccurate in their description; the flavour is far more delicate. Mr. N chose an exemplary Duck and Fois Gras terrine that was a revelation in taste. Packed with dense, foresty herb notes, this was a very superior Pate.

My main course of Calves Liver was perfectly cooked – pink – and the deep sticky jus took my taste buds on a trip to Paris and back. I recommend this as a standout selection. My husband was seduced by a dish of the day; Veal in cream, mushrooms and white wine. Robust and rustic, it hit the spot but he still cast an envious eye at my plate.

We quaffed a hearty Haute Vallee de L’Aude “Les Volet” (Malbec) which matched our meal perfectly. As a total Francophile, I entered the spirit of the occasion and was happily humming La Vie en Rose, in the style of Edith Piaf, between courses.

Pudding was an intense Chocolate Mousse, as recommended to me by Jenny, the Floor Manager. I like to challenge staff to recommend a dessert; they have taste-tested their way through the menu. My instinct was right; the mousse was outstanding. Mr. N. chose Mille Feuilles, layers of light sweet pastry sandwiched together with cream and fruit, and pronounced it delicious.

Le Beaujolais opened two years ago yet has the atmosphere of a well-established eatery. The owners are Eric (Chef) and Kiean (Front of House) and their partnership is one of long-standing, having worked together in France for many years. The Menu Prix-Fixe is £13.50/£15.75 for 2 and 3 courses respectively. This features seasonal favourites with typical French flair, such as Pheasant Casserole and Grey Mullet with Ratatouille. They also host “Club des Amis”, a regular event to practice French language skills whilst enjoying delicious food. Two courses cost £12.50.

Verdict: The philosophy at Le Beaujolais is “food cooked with love and care” and this is reflected on the plate. A simple menu, but not as artless as it seems, relying on complexity, layers of flavour and traditional techniques. An authentic, welcoming French restaurant.

Review Hotel du Vin Cheltenham

HOTEL DU VIN

I have a real affection for the Hotel du Vin in Cheltenham; it’s a beautiful building, luxuriously decorated, so elegant and stylish. Fortunately it is also on my doorstep.

HdV came to town five years ago, and quickly became something of an institution, blending in seamlessly with the fashionable and historical Montpellier sensibility. I have eaten there regularly because the service is slick and the food is so reliable. The only thing that frustrates me is that I have no valid excuse to book a room, but there is such a relaxed atmosphere I can momentarily forget that I am not an overnight guest, and lounge the hours away in a comfortable chair after dinner, without outstaying my welcome. The bar staff appear to anticipate my needs with telepathic skill, and a perfectly mixed drink is never more than a raised eyebrow away; but let me tear myself away from the tranquil lounge and my cocktail long enough to recommend the food.

The purpose of my recent visit was to try the new menu, which is a “back to our roots” affair focusing on Bistro classics; the tried and tested favourites that feature throughout the chain. French in origin, these are the dishes that sit best with the excellent wine offer for which Hotel du Vin is celebrated. In practical terms the philosophy is to allow the hotels to offer consistency from the du Vin family to the customer nationwide, but essentially allows the individual Chef to work with the best available local ingredients, to make classics as tasty as they can possibly be. The menu is selected to happily compliment the super-impressive wine list, but rest assured, the food in the Bistro is not the poor relation in any way.

Whilst perusing the menu, we ordered an aperitif. My request was for a cocktail of the bartender’s choosing (I like to be surprised). We were presented with deconstructed champagne cocktails; a flute of the sparkly stuff served alongside a small glass of super-sweet berry liqueur, which also contained the most delightful miniature wild strawberries.

Taste buds merrily tickled, the first course arrived. I chose a Goats Cheese and Beetroot Salad and Mr. N opted for Dressed Crab. Absolutely tip top on both counts. We had decided to wine match our meal, and left the selection up to the Sommelier, Roberto, who was a superb guide and as knowledgeable as you would expect in such a wine-centric establishment. He chose a Chablis (Domaine Bernard Defaix) for the crab dish, and my goats cheese was paired with a classic N.Z. Sauvignon Blanc.

My main course of Roast Cod on Buttered Leeks with a stunning Salsa Verde was light and flaky, packing a knock-out punch of fragrant Mediterranean herbs. This was paired with a floral, un-oaked Italian Friulano (Bastianich, Colli Orientali del Friuli).  Mr. N chose a dry-aged Fillet Steak, with an acidic, perfectly balanced Sauce Béarnaise, and Roberto selected a low tannic Californian Pinot Noir to accompany the richness of the griddled meat.

We were beginning to feel a little giddy with the attention; a Sommelier that knew what we had ordered food wise, without having to ask, is a joy to be served by. The where, the why, the how he arrived at his choices on our behalf was helpfully explained without a hint of superiority. As the headiness of the grape began to work magic, I got a little carried away and was prompted to discuss the importance of heritage vegetables for ten minutes with my rather bemused husband, who can hold his drink far better than I can.

Puddings often pose a problem for wine matching but we threw down the gauntlet when my husband chose a light as a feather White Chocolate Pave with a strawberry compote. Notoriously difficult to find wines to match, Roberto decided to experiment and brought a glass of Tannat Reserve Marichal, from Uruguay (hints of jam and vanilla) which was spectacular. A perfect pairing. I went for the retro option, and ate a wicked Rhum BaBa, alongside a traditional Muscat de Beaumes de Venise, Domaine de Durban.

It was a splendid meal, albeit enhanced by the glorious grape, and the wine matching experience was an especially enjoyable indulgence. There are not many restaurants that you can play with food and wine pairing so successfully, and with such inspiring results. Service was faultless. The atmosphere is relaxing and unchallenging. I would love to see the Bistro buzzing and fully booked every night, not just with hotel guests, but with local customers too, taking advantage of a super restaurant and surprisingly reasonable prices.

Verdict:  Top-notch wining and dining with a warm, professional welcome. The combination of a skilful chef, a knowledgable Sommelier in Roberto Zanca, and an attractive venue continue to impress me. The Hotel du Vin make every guest feel like a V.I.P.

Chef Profile: Paul Mottram

“Home Grown Food Heroes” are the inspiration behind Paul’s food, combining the best local produce with classic Bistro style cooking. 

Learning his trade in the seafood restaurants in his hometown of Looe in Cornwall, Paul has since travelled the world as a Chef on the QE2 and worked in acclaimed hotels and restaurants across the UK, including time served under the tutelage of my own personal food hero, Nico Ladenis at Chez Nico in Park Lane.

After years of fine dining and exotic food on his travels, Paul Mottram appears to be a relaxed and happy man now he is heading up the brigade at the Hotel du Vin Bistro. Chatting to Paul after service, he is obviously at his most animated and passionate when he is talking about food, specifically locally sourced and perfectly prepared produce. He uses mushrooms from the Forest of Dean, ducks from a family run business in the Wye Forest, salmon smoked to a bespoke Hotel du Vin cure.

“My ethos is simple food, done really well. At home I’ll cook a big casserole or lasagne, put the pot in the middle of the table, and enjoy with a loaf of freshly cooked bread. It’s how everyone ate when I lived overseas. Professionally, I love to cook with fish, on the bone of course. You can’t beat Lemon Sole; our cool waters make for the best Sole in the world. That is the kind of food that I have introduced on the Plat du Jour menu; an unpretentious French Onion Soup, followed by Sole and maybe a Tarte au Citron.”

2 or 3 course Lunch menu £12.95 and £14.95 respectively

Salted Caramel Choc Chip Brownies and Vanilla Bean Caramel Sauce

Salted Caramel Choc Chip Brownies and Vanilla Bean Caramel Sauce

One of my foodie obsessions in recent years has been Salted Caramel.  I noticed it creeping onto menus and cookery shows several years ago, then a few chocolate, salt and caramel combinations started to appear on the supermarket shelves and my life was complete.

I’ve since added a wonderful Caramel Sauce to my cooking repertoire - I often use it as a topping for Vanilla ice-cream.  However a sauce needs a plate mate, so I have been experimenting with tray bakes and brownies.  This is the nicest recipe that I found and it incorporates the caramel sauce as an ingredient.

The original recipe used a sauce made from melted shop bought soft toffees but I prefer to make my own.  If you choose to cheat, use 300g of soft toffees with three teaspoons of cream, microwaved for 2 minutes (stir every 20 seconds).

Ingredients Caramel Sauce

225 g granulated sugar

295 ml double cream

1/4 tsp sea salt

1 tsp vanilla extract

1 vanilla pod

Method

Heat the sugar over a low heat.  When the sugar begins to bubble and melt around the edges, use a heatproof spatula to push the sugar towards the centre of the pan.  Continue to stir gently until all the sugar has melted. Once the caramel reaches a deep amber colour, quickly remove the pan from the heat.  Take care not to overcook; a burnt sauce is bitter, unpleasant and pretty much unusable.

Pour in half of the cream, whilst whisking hard (the sauce will bubble actively).  Stir until incorporated, and then whisk in the remaining cream. Stir in the vanilla extract, seeds from the pod and the salt. 

If any hard sugar has formed, stir the caramel over a very low heat until the hardened pieces have melted and you have a smooth sauce.

Decant any leftover sauce into jars and store in the ‘fridge.

Ingredients Brownies

315 g plain flour


1/2 tsp table salt


1/2 tsp baking powder

175 g butter, melted, cooled

175 g light brown sugar


100 g granulated sugar


1 large egg


1 large egg yolk


2 teaspoons vanilla extract


200 g chocolate chips
(this can be expensive so I chop bars of chocolate into chunks by hand)

Caramel sauce (see recipe)

Sea salt, for sprinkling

Method

Prepare by preheating oven to 170 C and lining a deep sided 11” tray with baking parchment.  Mix flour, table salt and baking powder.  In a separate bowl mix butter and sugars, then add eggs and vanilla and mix a little more.  Add flour and combine, then stir in chocolate chips.

Put half the cookie dough in the pan, then top with a layer of caramel sauce, sprinkled with sea salt.  Add the additional dough until covered, and a little more sea salt on top.

Bake for half an hour and allow to cool a little.

Serve the brownies warm with good quality Vanilla ice-cream, drizzled with  Caramel Sauce.

REVIEW : THE SUFFOLK KITCHEN - CHELTENHAM

Seasonal food at The Suffolk Kitchen……Ali Nightingale finds the restaurant has all the right ingredients.

It takes a bold and confident caterer, one who knows his onions, to open a new restaurant in a town that is brimming with eateries of all descriptions, but Cheltenham is lucky to have Simon Davies raising his head above the economic parapet, for he is a man with his finger on the pulse of ethical food trends.

Whilst many restaurants pay lip service to seasonal and local produce, it is the central ethos behind his recently opened Suffolk Kitchen, at the heart of every dish.  This is not just a fashionable food philosophy; any chef worth their salt knows that the best tastes are coaxed from food without air miles, fresh from the local terrain.  The Suffolk Kitchen also source meat reared within shouting distance of the Cotswold Hills, which benefits the local economy.  

I was impressed by the ‘Brit Crop’ sensibility of the menu, but there was also a definite hint of European flair added to the indigenous ingredients.  Starters included a soufflé made with Hereford Hop Cheese, and Ox Cheek with an oyster reduction and radish salad (Beef and Oyster is such an Olde English combination, yet this assembly of ingredients was modern to the max).  The clever balance of traditional and contemporary British cooking is what makes the Suffolk Kitchen a stand-out establishment for me.

Mr. N got his selection spot on, homing in on the Pigeon Breast and wild garlic blini, served with red wine jus.  I cheekily pilfered half of his portion; one bite was just not enough.  The pigeon was moist, delicately gamey, with the almost liver like texture that a good chef can achieve when the cooking is timed perfectly.  The blini pancake was light as a cloud, with a gentle hint of wild garlic.  I asked Simon where they sourced the herb – I can never find it - and was informed that it was foraged that morning from a local green space.  Now that is proactive regional sourcing at its best.  I chose a simple seasonal cauliflower soup, which was given another textural dimension with the addition of Simon Weaver (Artisan Cheese-maker) Blue Brie profiteroles.

The Chef’s signature pork tenderloin did not disappoint; I have never eaten such a tender hog.  This was served with a black pudding mash, but the star of the show was (as always) on my husband’s plate.  His fillet steak was perfect, but the accompanying little choux puffs stuffed with Hereford snails were memorable and exquisite.

Puddings were a delight, and I was not surprised to find out that chef Gareth Blackmore was a pastry specialist.  Top marks for the homemade white chocolate ice-cream.

We loved the ambience of the restaurant; a smart yet homely space.  Service was attentive and helpful, linens are crisp and white, the wine list is superb value (I applaud SK selling English wines from the local Three Choirs vineyard) and the set menu available at lunchtime and early doors is easy on the pocket at £14.95 for 3 courses, including a glass of wine.

Verdict: A relaxed atmosphere and affordable, exciting menu is a winning combination.  A cut-above the usual Bistro experience.  The fresh and local produce in the hands of a skilled chef delivers on flavour, concept and style.  Highly recommended.

Feta Cheese Spring Salad Tarts

Feta Cheese Spring Salad Tarts             

Quick. Easy. Cheap. Three little words that rock my culinary world when I am short on time and funds. As addicted as I am to cooking, I don’t always have the inclination to slave over meals, and I am turning to vegetarian dishes more often, in frustration at the cost of meat.

Yet this is not an austerity recipe; there is nothing that tastes frugal or lacking in this tasty little tart that would happily grace the table of any fashionable Bistro. It’s simplicity on a plate; fresh and fragrant as a sunny day, and utilising my diet tip of ready-made light puff pastry, cuts down on calories as well as preparation time.

Ingredients:

1 sheet shop-bought light puff pastry, thawed

250g Feta Cheese, crumbled

Small jar of marinated artichoke hearts

1 egg, beaten

100g yellow & red cherry tomatoes

120g frozen peas, thawed

Mint leaves

Olive oil

Balsamic vinegar

Feel free to substitute any of the ingredients to suit your preference. Mozzarella and Basil will work just as well, and for those of you that cannot imagine a meal with meat, perhaps add some crispy bacon. If you don’t like artichokes, you could substitute with asparagus.

Method:

Preheat the oven to 200 C.

Cut the pastry into 4 rectangles, and score a half-inch border inside each square. Place the pieces on a baking tray lined with parchment and top with feta and artichoke hearts. Brush the borders with the egg wash and bake for 12-15 minutes, until golden.

Prepare the salad. Halve the tomatoes, place in a bowl with the peas and ripped up mint leaves. Drizzle with a little balsamic vinegar and olive oil. When the hot tarts are removed from the oven, top with the salad. Season and serve immediately.

Cod with Black Olive Dressing

Cod with Black Olive Dressing

Writing about food for Cotswold Style, and in a constant creative cooking frenzy, I found myself with a body shaped like one of those huge luxury Easter Eggs you see in the window of fancy chocolate shops.  I had taken my eye off the ball whilst taste testing cream buns, and something had to change.  So, setting myself a challenge of “can diet food be delicious” I have been dabbling with lower calorie meals that tempt my taste buds whilst whittling away at my waistline.

In my newfound spirit of healthy eating, fish is just the kind of food I fancy at the moment.  It took me forty something years to become a fully fledged fish aficionado and I am now making up for lost time and not just saving fish for Friday.

I think what I love most about fish, is the speed and simplicity in which I can prepare a quick supper.  I am also discarding my food snobbery and have subsequently discovered that frozen fish can be a good friend to the busy cook, and is often surprisingly inexpensive (three cheers for Aldi frozen Sea Bass fillets at £2.99 for two).

However, we have Good Friday to think about so my fishy offering this month is Cod.  I choose Marine Stewardship Council (MSC) certified line caught Cod in an attempt to be ethical about my choice. 

Cod and olives are a wonderful partnership and a traditional Mediterranean combination.  This meal is almost effortless, and the end result is elegant and stylish.  I usually serve with a freshly made ratatouille or a salad.  If you are especially diet conscious, just use a little less of the olive oil dressing.

Serves 4



Ingredients

100g x black olives


200ml x good olive oil


A few radishes, sliced

Chives for garnish


4  x cod fillets, about 150-175g each


Salt and pepper

Splash of white wine



Method

Blitz the olives and oil for a few seconds, or simply chop olives and mix with oil. Set aside.

Preheat the oven to 220 C (200 for fan oven), season the fish and wrap individually in foil with a splash of white wine, until cooked; this will take about 12-15 minutes. 
To serve, plate the fish and garnish with the sliced radishes and chives. Drizzle with the blended oil (this will have separated, like a vinaigrette)

Review - The Tara @ Upton St Leonards

The Tara Restaurant at Hatton Court, Nr. Upton St Leonards

Starter

Main

Pudding

                                       

I have no idea why the Tara Restaurant has not been on my radar until now, but my Parents had eaten there recently and given a good report.  The food seemed interesting and Hatton Court is in an attractive location; I was intrigued and booked a table for a midweek dinner.

At first glance, the menu seemed traditional and trustworthy.  The first plus point in my notebook – I could happily have eaten anything listed, not one single option that didn’t tickle my taste buds.  That led me to the correct conclusion that the Chef and I were on the same wavelength. 

Mr N and I have an annoying habit of choosing the same item, but for reviewing purposes I like to ring the changes.  This also gives me a valid excuse to steal food from his plate in the name of research. I opted for the set 3-course tariff at £25 and my husband was given approval to order from the individually priced menu.

When our first courses arrived, they were pretty as a picture, contemporary food art presented on black slate tiles.  I had Arbroath Smokie Pate with sour beetroot, soft cooked quails eggs and caper berries which was as good as I have eaten in award winning restaurants.  The combination of flavours was nigh on perfect, and enhanced by the clever addition of fennel pollen.  Mr N was presented with a hot & cold starter of Seared Smoked Salmon, with Avocado, a little salad made of Anya potatoes and a Horseradish dressing.  He polished it off before I could steal a mere morsel, but concluded that it was delicious.

My braised Bavette of Beef was a clever use of flank steak, and so tender that you could cut it with a spoon.  I applaud the use of this tasty cut; the French love it, which is all the recommendation I need.  This was served with a rather architectural parsnip wrapped with a ham crisp and pointing skywards. It actually resembled the Burj Al Arab hotel in Dubai - very artistic indeed.  The superstar on the plate however was an excellent sauce, which gave everything else a wonderfully deep and rich flavor.  My husband chose Sea Bass in a Lobster broth, which was decoratively dressed with a couple of beady eyed crustaceans which unfortunately defeated his manual dexterity, and he never got to dig into the sweet flesh within.  The Sea Bass was enough to keep him happy, and yet again my efforts in double taste testing were foiled.

Puddings were attractive and tasty.  I chose a trio of lemon temptations; a creamy posset, a good sharp tart and an acidic sorbet.  Mr N’s Crème Brulee with rhubarb, accompanied by a tuile biscuit, was also pronounced to be very good indeed.

Pleasingly, the atmosphere is that of a restaurant, not of a hotel dining room.  Service was efficient, and did not impose on our privacy.  Overall, The Tara sits very comfortably in between traditional and contemporary dining, which is ideal for a destination restaurant with a diverse clientele.

Verdict:  A pleasing dining experience.  Chef Phil Clench has skill and imagination.  Deserving of local support and serious consideration for a lovely meal out, serving delicious food with artistic flair.