Review - The Star Bistro, National Star College, Ullenwood

The Star Bistro - Ullenwood nr. Cheltenham

The National Star College is a specialist educational facility that enables people with disabilities to fulfil their potential through education and practical vocational skills. I was fascinated to learn about a new partnership with the Wriggly Worm Charity. The Star Bistro, which opened earlier this year, is the worthy result of their joint venture.

Social entrepreneur, Rob Rees MBE, heads the Wiggly Worm.  It promotes health and self esteem amongst the disadvantaged. Rob was determined that his collaboration with the Star College would be a valid, cost effective proposition that served superb quality local food, as well as teaching skills to the students. Rob is one of the most motivational food professionals I have ever met, his enthusiasm and determination to use his knowledge and influence for the good of people, as well as promoting a local and sustainable supply chain, is both contagious and impressive.

Chef Matt Black, patiently demonstrated techniques as he tutored the Star College students, preparing the ingredients and dressing the plates with immaculate precision. I love an open kitchen, but in this instance it was a real insight to the meaningful work. Most pro-kitchens are noisy, frantic, even stressful, but here at the Star Bistro all was cool, calm and collected.

We ate there in mid June and every mouthful sang a song of summer, the menu leans towards a light lunch selection so we managed to devour three courses. Every morsel was a delight.   

I began with a hearty pate, perfectly seasoned with local herbs, and Mr N had an attractive Onion Tarte Tatin with Goats Cheese Mousse. Quite frankly, both were stunning.

My main course was a warm vegetarian seasonal salad, perfectly prepared. Asparagus, broad beans and pea, in a light hollandaise, and topped with poached Star chicken egg (the chickens are cared for by the students). It was a pleasure to eat. My husband’s veal shin croquette was more delicate than expected, and served with a sauce gribiche.

Pudding was a revelation; so simple I couldn’t understand why I had never had it before. Fresh summer berries, topped with a whisked warm Marsala sabayon, and flashed under a grill. Totally heavenly.

I could quite happily return and eat here twice a month, with an ever-changing seasonal menu. Also featured were humble bacon butties, with locally butchered bacon, and an artisan cheese selection if you want an unassuming snack.

Rob Rees is the guiding light and driving force behind the enterprise, and I left with enough material for three interviews, but I especially want to praise the man behind the stove, Matt Black. My overall impression was that Matt is not only an excellent chef (and one who has a magical touch with herbs) but watching him work calmly and patiently with his small team of eager students, he impressed me on another level. He is a real gem.

The meal was an affordable total of £31.00. The Plat du Jour costs just £12 or £15.00 for two or three courses respectively.

Verdict: A cleverly conceived menu. Don’t wait another minute, pick up the ‘phone and book now. The quality and creativity of the food is exceptional, and the Star Bistro is a really worthwhile enterprise to support.

website address is www.starbistro.org and the phone number is 01242 535984.

Review - Le Beaujolais Cirencester

Le Beaujolais – Cirencester

After weeks of red, white and blue ‘Jubilee Mania’, eating British and Commonwealth inspired food in abundance, you may have forgotten that our near neighbours gave us the building blocks of our contemporary tastes in cookery. No cuisine is more influential than French.

Once-upon-a-time, traditional Bistro’s were to be found in every town, but with on-going trends towards international influences, homely French fare has become hard to find.  Of course there are “Franglais” style chains and expensive fine dining but I mourn the lack of authentic French restaurants offering “La Cuisine de Maman”. Thankfully, I was introduced to Le Beaujolais.

The two-floor establishment on Castle Street is simply and patriotically decorated. Tricolour bunting and a map of France adorn the wall. This is full-on Français, slightly stereotypical without feeling like a theme park. The restaurant was reassuringly packed with locals, including a Frenchman at the next table. I greedily eyed up his heaped bowl of bouillabaisse and resisted pouncing on him, demanding mussels and fish, topped with Sauce Rouille.

I ordered Cuisses de Grenouille (Frogs Legs) and a couple of fine specimens were placed before me, dripping in garlic parsley butter. Anyone who tells the uninitiated that Frogs Legs taste of chicken is being inaccurate in their description; the flavour is far more delicate. Mr. N chose an exemplary Duck and Fois Gras terrine that was a revelation in taste. Packed with dense, foresty herb notes, this was a very superior Pate.

My main course of Calves Liver was perfectly cooked – pink – and the deep sticky jus took my taste buds on a trip to Paris and back. I recommend this as a standout selection. My husband was seduced by a dish of the day; Veal in cream, mushrooms and white wine. Robust and rustic, it hit the spot but he still cast an envious eye at my plate.

We quaffed a hearty Haute Vallee de L’Aude “Les Volet” (Malbec) which matched our meal perfectly. As a total Francophile, I entered the spirit of the occasion and was happily humming La Vie en Rose, in the style of Edith Piaf, between courses.

Pudding was an intense Chocolate Mousse, as recommended to me by Jenny, the Floor Manager. I like to challenge staff to recommend a dessert; they have taste-tested their way through the menu. My instinct was right; the mousse was outstanding. Mr. N. chose Mille Feuilles, layers of light sweet pastry sandwiched together with cream and fruit, and pronounced it delicious.

Le Beaujolais opened two years ago yet has the atmosphere of a well-established eatery. The owners are Eric (Chef) and Kiean (Front of House) and their partnership is one of long-standing, having worked together in France for many years. The Menu Prix-Fixe is £13.50/£15.75 for 2 and 3 courses respectively. This features seasonal favourites with typical French flair, such as Pheasant Casserole and Grey Mullet with Ratatouille. They also host “Club des Amis”, a regular event to practice French language skills whilst enjoying delicious food. Two courses cost £12.50.

Verdict: The philosophy at Le Beaujolais is “food cooked with love and care” and this is reflected on the plate. A simple menu, but not as artless as it seems, relying on complexity, layers of flavour and traditional techniques. An authentic, welcoming French restaurant.

Review Hotel du Vin Cheltenham

HOTEL DU VIN

I have a real affection for the Hotel du Vin in Cheltenham; it’s a beautiful building, luxuriously decorated, so elegant and stylish. Fortunately it is also on my doorstep.

HdV came to town five years ago, and quickly became something of an institution, blending in seamlessly with the fashionable and historical Montpellier sensibility. I have eaten there regularly because the service is slick and the food is so reliable. The only thing that frustrates me is that I have no valid excuse to book a room, but there is such a relaxed atmosphere I can momentarily forget that I am not an overnight guest, and lounge the hours away in a comfortable chair after dinner, without outstaying my welcome. The bar staff appear to anticipate my needs with telepathic skill, and a perfectly mixed drink is never more than a raised eyebrow away; but let me tear myself away from the tranquil lounge and my cocktail long enough to recommend the food.

The purpose of my recent visit was to try the new menu, which is a “back to our roots” affair focusing on Bistro classics; the tried and tested favourites that feature throughout the chain. French in origin, these are the dishes that sit best with the excellent wine offer for which Hotel du Vin is celebrated. In practical terms the philosophy is to allow the hotels to offer consistency from the du Vin family to the customer nationwide, but essentially allows the individual Chef to work with the best available local ingredients, to make classics as tasty as they can possibly be. The menu is selected to happily compliment the super-impressive wine list, but rest assured, the food in the Bistro is not the poor relation in any way.

Whilst perusing the menu, we ordered an aperitif. My request was for a cocktail of the bartender’s choosing (I like to be surprised). We were presented with deconstructed champagne cocktails; a flute of the sparkly stuff served alongside a small glass of super-sweet berry liqueur, which also contained the most delightful miniature wild strawberries.

Taste buds merrily tickled, the first course arrived. I chose a Goats Cheese and Beetroot Salad and Mr. N opted for Dressed Crab. Absolutely tip top on both counts. We had decided to wine match our meal, and left the selection up to the Sommelier, Roberto, who was a superb guide and as knowledgeable as you would expect in such a wine-centric establishment. He chose a Chablis (Domaine Bernard Defaix) for the crab dish, and my goats cheese was paired with a classic N.Z. Sauvignon Blanc.

My main course of Roast Cod on Buttered Leeks with a stunning Salsa Verde was light and flaky, packing a knock-out punch of fragrant Mediterranean herbs. This was paired with a floral, un-oaked Italian Friulano (Bastianich, Colli Orientali del Friuli).  Mr. N chose a dry-aged Fillet Steak, with an acidic, perfectly balanced Sauce Béarnaise, and Roberto selected a low tannic Californian Pinot Noir to accompany the richness of the griddled meat.

We were beginning to feel a little giddy with the attention; a Sommelier that knew what we had ordered food wise, without having to ask, is a joy to be served by. The where, the why, the how he arrived at his choices on our behalf was helpfully explained without a hint of superiority. As the headiness of the grape began to work magic, I got a little carried away and was prompted to discuss the importance of heritage vegetables for ten minutes with my rather bemused husband, who can hold his drink far better than I can.

Puddings often pose a problem for wine matching but we threw down the gauntlet when my husband chose a light as a feather White Chocolate Pave with a strawberry compote. Notoriously difficult to find wines to match, Roberto decided to experiment and brought a glass of Tannat Reserve Marichal, from Uruguay (hints of jam and vanilla) which was spectacular. A perfect pairing. I went for the retro option, and ate a wicked Rhum BaBa, alongside a traditional Muscat de Beaumes de Venise, Domaine de Durban.

It was a splendid meal, albeit enhanced by the glorious grape, and the wine matching experience was an especially enjoyable indulgence. There are not many restaurants that you can play with food and wine pairing so successfully, and with such inspiring results. Service was faultless. The atmosphere is relaxing and unchallenging. I would love to see the Bistro buzzing and fully booked every night, not just with hotel guests, but with local customers too, taking advantage of a super restaurant and surprisingly reasonable prices.

Verdict:  Top-notch wining and dining with a warm, professional welcome. The combination of a skilful chef, a knowledgable Sommelier in Roberto Zanca, and an attractive venue continue to impress me. The Hotel du Vin make every guest feel like a V.I.P.

Chef Profile: Paul Mottram

“Home Grown Food Heroes” are the inspiration behind Paul’s food, combining the best local produce with classic Bistro style cooking. 

Learning his trade in the seafood restaurants in his hometown of Looe in Cornwall, Paul has since travelled the world as a Chef on the QE2 and worked in acclaimed hotels and restaurants across the UK, including time served under the tutelage of my own personal food hero, Nico Ladenis at Chez Nico in Park Lane.

After years of fine dining and exotic food on his travels, Paul Mottram appears to be a relaxed and happy man now he is heading up the brigade at the Hotel du Vin Bistro. Chatting to Paul after service, he is obviously at his most animated and passionate when he is talking about food, specifically locally sourced and perfectly prepared produce. He uses mushrooms from the Forest of Dean, ducks from a family run business in the Wye Forest, salmon smoked to a bespoke Hotel du Vin cure.

“My ethos is simple food, done really well. At home I’ll cook a big casserole or lasagne, put the pot in the middle of the table, and enjoy with a loaf of freshly cooked bread. It’s how everyone ate when I lived overseas. Professionally, I love to cook with fish, on the bone of course. You can’t beat Lemon Sole; our cool waters make for the best Sole in the world. That is the kind of food that I have introduced on the Plat du Jour menu; an unpretentious French Onion Soup, followed by Sole and maybe a Tarte au Citron.”

2 or 3 course Lunch menu £12.95 and £14.95 respectively

Review - The Tara @ Upton St Leonards

The Tara Restaurant at Hatton Court, Nr. Upton St Leonards

Starter

Main

Pudding

                                       

I have no idea why the Tara Restaurant has not been on my radar until now, but my Parents had eaten there recently and given a good report.  The food seemed interesting and Hatton Court is in an attractive location; I was intrigued and booked a table for a midweek dinner.

At first glance, the menu seemed traditional and trustworthy.  The first plus point in my notebook – I could happily have eaten anything listed, not one single option that didn’t tickle my taste buds.  That led me to the correct conclusion that the Chef and I were on the same wavelength. 

Mr N and I have an annoying habit of choosing the same item, but for reviewing purposes I like to ring the changes.  This also gives me a valid excuse to steal food from his plate in the name of research. I opted for the set 3-course tariff at £25 and my husband was given approval to order from the individually priced menu.

When our first courses arrived, they were pretty as a picture, contemporary food art presented on black slate tiles.  I had Arbroath Smokie Pate with sour beetroot, soft cooked quails eggs and caper berries which was as good as I have eaten in award winning restaurants.  The combination of flavours was nigh on perfect, and enhanced by the clever addition of fennel pollen.  Mr N was presented with a hot & cold starter of Seared Smoked Salmon, with Avocado, a little salad made of Anya potatoes and a Horseradish dressing.  He polished it off before I could steal a mere morsel, but concluded that it was delicious.

My braised Bavette of Beef was a clever use of flank steak, and so tender that you could cut it with a spoon.  I applaud the use of this tasty cut; the French love it, which is all the recommendation I need.  This was served with a rather architectural parsnip wrapped with a ham crisp and pointing skywards. It actually resembled the Burj Al Arab hotel in Dubai - very artistic indeed.  The superstar on the plate however was an excellent sauce, which gave everything else a wonderfully deep and rich flavor.  My husband chose Sea Bass in a Lobster broth, which was decoratively dressed with a couple of beady eyed crustaceans which unfortunately defeated his manual dexterity, and he never got to dig into the sweet flesh within.  The Sea Bass was enough to keep him happy, and yet again my efforts in double taste testing were foiled.

Puddings were attractive and tasty.  I chose a trio of lemon temptations; a creamy posset, a good sharp tart and an acidic sorbet.  Mr N’s Crème Brulee with rhubarb, accompanied by a tuile biscuit, was also pronounced to be very good indeed.

Pleasingly, the atmosphere is that of a restaurant, not of a hotel dining room.  Service was efficient, and did not impose on our privacy.  Overall, The Tara sits very comfortably in between traditional and contemporary dining, which is ideal for a destination restaurant with a diverse clientele.

Verdict:  A pleasing dining experience.  Chef Phil Clench has skill and imagination.  Deserving of local support and serious consideration for a lovely meal out, serving delicious food with artistic flair.

Ellenborough Park - Cheltenham Winner of The World Travel Awards UK Leading Country House Hotel 2011

All expectations exceeded - Ali Nightingale eats at Ellenborough Park and concludes that everything is in the best possible taste.

When pondering which Cotswold restaurant to review, I was keen to try somewhere new to me. It was suggested that I try The Brasserie at Ellenborough Park.

Ellenborough Park opened in March 2011. It’s already been voted The World Travel Awards UK Leading Country House Hotel, and yet I had still not set foot in the immaculately refurbished hotel, majestically overlooking Cheltenham Racecourse. I had an incorrect perception that the restaurants might be a little rich for my pocket, but keen to try somewhere that takes customer service and food seriously, I made a reservation in the informal Brasserie.

Approaching the magnificent façade, I was in awe of the stunning renovation. However, any ill-judged preconceptions of discomforting grandeur are deceiving - the moment we stepped over the threshold, the warm greeting from the professional yet relaxed and friendly staff made me feel genuinely welcomed and comfortable.

The exposed stone, warm wood, heritage paintwork and leather bar stools in the Brasserie Bar create an informal ambiance. The ‘Sporting Life’ themed artwork that adorns the walls pays homage to the heritage of racing and the sporting ethic so beloved in Gloucestershire. The bar offers excellent beers, premium spirit brands and impressive wines. Delicious nibbles of homemade crisps and a simple yet sensational antipasto of olives, peppers and pickled lemon rind were offered and gratefully devoured.

Dinner in The Brasserie was a three-course affair: I opted for the excellent value set menu at £19.95 whilst Mr N ordered with a free hand. His Scallops with a Basil Pesto and Noodles recommended by the Manager was fresh and delicately flavoured as promised. My Game Terrine was substantial and delicious. I followed this with a winter appropriate Slow-Roast Duck Leg with braised red cabbage and perfect Dauphinoise Potatoes alongside, in a single-serve pan. Mr N’s Cod Cheeks with a well-balanced tartare sauce were a big hit.

Needless to say we shared throughout; forks passed across the table to accompanying murmurs of “that is so good”! My husband then hit the jackpot with a memorable Orange Bread & Butter Pudding. I was slightly aggrieved that Mr. N hogged his dessert and I was only allowed one mouthful. We especially liked the good value Klein Steenberg House Wine, unquestionably selected on the basis of quality and taste rather than price consideration.

Chef David Kelman popped out of his kitchen and we talked about his passion for sourcing and showcasing local ingredients. His menu achieves this aim admirably.

We then chatted to a delightful couple at an adjacent table (that’s the relaxed atmosphere of The Brasserie at work - we bonded over mutual appreciation of the Riedel wine glasses). Discerning visitors from overseas, they waxed lyrical about their Ellenborough experience. I felt rather hard done by that I had to go home at the end of the evening, desperately wanting to stay in the welcoming cocoon of Ellenborough Park. It offers delicious food, splendour without pretentiousness, and staff that you want to add to your Christmas card list. If ever they want a “Writer in Residence” I am there, ready to taste-test the entire menu.

My mantra is “Never economise on luxury” but The Brasserie is agreeably affordable, especially the set menu (available Monday-Thursday).

Verdict:
A relaxed and praiseworthy dining experience, living up to Ellenborough Park’s promised standards, and deserving of an appreciative, wider clientele. Special commendation to Brasserie Manager, Antonio Sanchez - an absolute superstar in cordial and professional hospitality. He effortlessly sets the tone for an enjoyable experience.

Reviewed February 2012

Casamia Review June 2011

Casamia
38, The High Street, Westbury on Trym, Bristol
(0117 959 2884)



Before they won their well deserved Michelin star, the Sanchez-Iglesias brothers ran a little restaurant in my home town of Cheltenham, which was very well respected but a commercial disaster. I felt a personal investment in their enterprise, and more than a little sadness at its closure. It was on the site of a plot of property previously owned by my family for several generations; I was actually born in the apartment above, and the site is now owned by family friends. For some reason there was no real buzz around town - location, location, location - and it remained instead a "best kept secret". Great to collect the selective plaudits, but would have been better to collect the ten pound notes.

Closing shop and finding themselves back at their parents traditional Italian restaurant in a suburb of Bristol, the boys took the kitchen over and reworked the offer with Italian influenced modernity and fireworks. Their imaginative menu's and undoubtable skills have resulted in critical success, that Michelin star, and winning the competition to find Gordon Ramsey's Best Restaurant in Britain. It really is THAT good. It really is ! But it's also relaxed, unstuffy. Serious about food but unpretentious to the max (hard to say when dining on a 8 course tasting menu at £68 a pop and for those that do not understand moderation there was an unpublicised 14 course menu at £98) The chefs are so lovely, enthused and friendly you immediately want them to be your best friends.

The dining room is entered via a gated courtyard, filled with herbs and flowers, and the appearance is very much of a smart Trattoria. Staff were friendly and professional, without being obsequious. Each dish is delivered to your table by one of the student chefs that has a hand in preparing it, the ingredients and the (de)construction explained. The service is spot on, thorough and attentive, but not at all ostentatious.

Food included a pretty 'art on a plate' wild boar salami salad, stunning beetroot risotto with fennel, succulent salmon cooked 'sous vide', the most tender pork I have tasted outside of Tuscany, and a delicate taste bud tickler in the form of Pine Nut Pannecotta, complete with liquid nitrogen presentation. The appearance of every dish was artistic and exquisite. Everything was delicious and had an understated flair. Wine list is modest in size, but well priced.

I took my son with me; the meal was a 'Goodbye to University' treat. I have been dragging the offspring around Michelin star restaurants for years and he decided that he liked Casamia as much as his personal favourite, Purnells in Birmingham. His memorable moment was enhanced by a long and inspiring chat with Chef Johnray, and a trip around the development and research kitchen they are building above the restaurant. I've run a restaurant and I know the last thing a chef usually wants to do after a long service is spend 45 minutes chatting to a table, but he was so enthused, almost evangelistic about the future of Casamia, that we were both totally charmed and fell a little bit in love with this talented young man.

I am eagerly awaiting an opportunity to return.

We ate :

scrambled duck egg
cured pig, thyme

wild boar salami
sheep curd, carrot, pesto

beetroot, barley,
iced yogurt pickled fennel (2006)

salmon, italian
garnish cauliflower

iberico pork, mushroom
apple sauce, celery root

selection of local
cheeses £10 supplement

pine nut pannacotta
amalfi lemon sorbet

traditional tiramisu
the smell of renato’s numero uno

chocolate and sweets

From the Archives: Restaurant Review - Purnell's, Birmingham

Original article from March 2009

Having wanted to visit Purnell's for a while, we finally had the excuse. It was our wedding anniversary so what better occasion that this.
We don't have many great restaurants in our area and Purnell's is an hours drive, which limits how much we can enjoy their fine wine list.

Opting for the 7 course tasting menu (at a non credit crunch price tag of £65 a head) were were not to be disappointed. These delights included an amuse bouche of beetroot sorbet; the signature dish of poached egg yolk with haddock foam, curry oil and yep, cornflakes; pork belly paired (surprisingly well) with red mullet; a scrumptious pud of warm chocolate mousse and an iced passion fruit sorbet, and the now famous Great British Menu delight of a creme brulee (by any other name) served in eggshells.

Some of these new kitchen wunderkinds are Emperors without any clothes - but certainly not Glynn Purnell. There's a wit and whimsy to his inventive dishes that I thought I wouldn't necessarily enjoy (why does food need to be funny ?) but it's actually so unpretentious, so seemingly simple (although I am sure the methods are really complex), so tasty that I totally forgive the amusing take on breakfast during an evening out.

There's nothing high falutin' about this place; the decor is hip but not achingly trendy - it's comfortable and welcoming. The staff are all diamonds; friendly yet professional. Jean-Benoit in particular really knows his way round a wine list and persuaded me to indulge in the wine tasting menu which was full of delights and surprises and superb value for money.

Not the best meal of my life, but certainly in the top ten and I've been fortunate enough to eat in some of the best restaurants in France (nothing beats La Tupina !) and eaten crumbs off the tables of Messrs Ramsey & White and bowed at the feet of masters such as Michel & Albert Roux, Nico Ladenis, Kauffman and Mossiman.

I think Glynn Purnell is very very good, and he could become an all-time British great.

It wasn't a cheap evening, but it lived up to my expectations of being special - so all in all I think it's worth it. You don't have to spend as much - they offer a 3 course option for less than 40 quid, and they will recommend an affordable lesser known wine that will blow your mind as much as the pricier options.

Only niggle was that the service charge is built in. I really REALLY hate that.

I want to reward top notch service myself ( I had already taken £30 out of my purse as a tip before I saw that they had already included £28 service) and a fixed charge leaves a bit of a nasty taste in your mouth. I wish restaurants would understand that we will put our money where on mouth is, and don't need our arm twisted to do it.

However, that is not worth denying myself delicious food, and Purnell's aren't the only culprits to extort a tip in the guise of the bill. We will definitely visit again.

Update: we have returned twice since this review was written and have another date in the diary for my birthday - Purnell's never disappoints. And the Maitre 'D, Jean-Benoit is the most charming host ever - as yummy as the food !