HOTEL DU VIN
I have a real affection for the Hotel du Vin in Cheltenham; it’s
a beautiful building, luxuriously decorated, so elegant and stylish.
Fortunately it is also on my doorstep.
HdV came to town five years ago, and quickly became
something of an institution, blending in seamlessly with the fashionable and historical
Montpellier sensibility. I have eaten there regularly because the service is
slick and the food is so reliable. The only thing that frustrates me is that I
have no valid excuse to book a room, but there is such a relaxed atmosphere I
can momentarily forget that I am not an overnight guest, and lounge the hours
away in a comfortable chair after dinner, without outstaying my welcome. The
bar staff appear to anticipate my needs with telepathic skill, and a perfectly
mixed drink is never more than a raised eyebrow away; but let me tear myself
away from the tranquil lounge and my cocktail long enough to recommend the
food.
The purpose of my recent visit was to try the new menu,
which is a “back to our roots” affair focusing on Bistro classics; the tried
and tested favourites that feature throughout the chain. French in origin, these
are the dishes that sit best with the excellent wine offer for which Hotel du
Vin is celebrated. In practical terms the philosophy is to allow the hotels to
offer consistency from the du Vin family to the customer nationwide, but
essentially allows the individual Chef to work with the best available local
ingredients, to make classics as tasty as they can possibly be. The menu is
selected to happily compliment the super-impressive wine list, but rest
assured, the food in the Bistro is not the poor relation in any way.
Whilst perusing the menu, we ordered an aperitif. My request
was for a cocktail of the bartender’s choosing (I like to be surprised). We
were presented with deconstructed champagne cocktails; a flute of the sparkly
stuff served alongside a small glass of super-sweet berry liqueur, which also
contained the most delightful miniature wild strawberries.
Taste buds merrily tickled, the first course arrived. I
chose a Goats Cheese and Beetroot Salad and Mr. N opted for Dressed Crab.
Absolutely tip top on both counts. We had decided to wine match our meal, and
left the selection up to the Sommelier, Roberto, who was a superb guide and as
knowledgeable as you would expect in such a wine-centric establishment. He
chose a Chablis (Domaine Bernard Defaix) for the crab dish, and my goats cheese
was paired with a classic N.Z. Sauvignon Blanc.
My main course of Roast Cod on Buttered Leeks with a
stunning Salsa Verde was light and flaky, packing a knock-out punch of fragrant
Mediterranean herbs. This was paired with a floral, un-oaked Italian Friulano (Bastianich, Colli Orientali del
Friuli). Mr. N chose a dry-aged Fillet
Steak, with an acidic, perfectly balanced Sauce Béarnaise,
and Roberto selected a low tannic Californian Pinot Noir to accompany the
richness of the griddled meat.
We were beginning to feel a little giddy with the attention;
a Sommelier that knew what we had ordered food wise, without having to ask, is
a joy to be served by. The where, the why, the how he arrived at his choices on
our behalf was helpfully explained without a hint of superiority. As the
headiness of the grape began to work magic, I got a little carried away and was
prompted to discuss the importance of heritage vegetables for ten minutes with
my rather bemused husband, who can hold his drink far better than I can.
Puddings often pose a problem for wine matching but we threw
down the gauntlet when my husband chose a light as a feather White Chocolate
Pave with a strawberry compote. Notoriously difficult to find wines to match,
Roberto decided to experiment and brought a glass of Tannat Reserve Marichal,
from Uruguay (hints of jam and vanilla) which was spectacular. A perfect
pairing. I went for the retro option, and ate a wicked Rhum BaBa, alongside a
traditional Muscat de Beaumes de Venise, Domaine de Durban.
It was a splendid meal, albeit enhanced by the glorious grape,
and the wine matching experience was an especially enjoyable indulgence. There
are not many restaurants that you can play with food and wine pairing so
successfully, and with such inspiring results. Service was faultless. The
atmosphere is relaxing and unchallenging. I would love to see the Bistro
buzzing and fully booked every night, not just with hotel guests, but with
local customers too, taking advantage of a super restaurant and surprisingly
reasonable prices.
Verdict: Top-notch wining
and dining with a warm, professional welcome. The combination of a skilful chef,
a knowledgable Sommelier in Roberto Zanca, and an attractive venue continue to
impress me. The Hotel du Vin make every guest feel like a V.I.P.
Chef Profile: Paul Mottram
“Home Grown Food Heroes” are the inspiration behind Paul’s
food, combining the best local produce with classic Bistro style cooking.
Learning his trade in the seafood restaurants in his hometown
of Looe in Cornwall, Paul has since travelled the world as a Chef on the QE2
and worked in acclaimed hotels and restaurants across the UK, including time
served under the tutelage of my own personal food hero, Nico Ladenis at Chez
Nico in Park Lane.
After years of fine dining and exotic food on his travels,
Paul Mottram appears to be a relaxed and happy man now he is heading up the
brigade at the Hotel du Vin Bistro. Chatting to Paul after service, he is obviously
at his most animated and passionate when he is talking about food, specifically
locally sourced and perfectly prepared produce. He uses mushrooms from the
Forest of Dean, ducks from a family run business in the Wye Forest, salmon
smoked to a bespoke Hotel du Vin cure.
“My ethos is simple food, done really well. At home I’ll
cook a big casserole or lasagne, put the pot in the middle of the table, and
enjoy with a loaf of freshly cooked bread. It’s how everyone ate when I lived
overseas. Professionally, I love to cook with fish, on the bone of course. You
can’t beat Lemon Sole; our cool waters make for the best Sole in the world.
That is the kind of food that I have introduced on the Plat du Jour menu; an
unpretentious French Onion Soup, followed by Sole and maybe a Tarte au Citron.”
2 or 3 course Lunch menu £12.95 and £14.95 respectively
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