Review - The Star Bistro, National Star College, Ullenwood

The Star Bistro - Ullenwood nr. Cheltenham

The National Star College is a specialist educational facility that enables people with disabilities to fulfil their potential through education and practical vocational skills. I was fascinated to learn about a new partnership with the Wriggly Worm Charity. The Star Bistro, which opened earlier this year, is the worthy result of their joint venture.

Social entrepreneur, Rob Rees MBE, heads the Wiggly Worm.  It promotes health and self esteem amongst the disadvantaged. Rob was determined that his collaboration with the Star College would be a valid, cost effective proposition that served superb quality local food, as well as teaching skills to the students. Rob is one of the most motivational food professionals I have ever met, his enthusiasm and determination to use his knowledge and influence for the good of people, as well as promoting a local and sustainable supply chain, is both contagious and impressive.

Chef Matt Black, patiently demonstrated techniques as he tutored the Star College students, preparing the ingredients and dressing the plates with immaculate precision. I love an open kitchen, but in this instance it was a real insight to the meaningful work. Most pro-kitchens are noisy, frantic, even stressful, but here at the Star Bistro all was cool, calm and collected.

We ate there in mid June and every mouthful sang a song of summer, the menu leans towards a light lunch selection so we managed to devour three courses. Every morsel was a delight.   

I began with a hearty pate, perfectly seasoned with local herbs, and Mr N had an attractive Onion Tarte Tatin with Goats Cheese Mousse. Quite frankly, both were stunning.

My main course was a warm vegetarian seasonal salad, perfectly prepared. Asparagus, broad beans and pea, in a light hollandaise, and topped with poached Star chicken egg (the chickens are cared for by the students). It was a pleasure to eat. My husband’s veal shin croquette was more delicate than expected, and served with a sauce gribiche.

Pudding was a revelation; so simple I couldn’t understand why I had never had it before. Fresh summer berries, topped with a whisked warm Marsala sabayon, and flashed under a grill. Totally heavenly.

I could quite happily return and eat here twice a month, with an ever-changing seasonal menu. Also featured were humble bacon butties, with locally butchered bacon, and an artisan cheese selection if you want an unassuming snack.

Rob Rees is the guiding light and driving force behind the enterprise, and I left with enough material for three interviews, but I especially want to praise the man behind the stove, Matt Black. My overall impression was that Matt is not only an excellent chef (and one who has a magical touch with herbs) but watching him work calmly and patiently with his small team of eager students, he impressed me on another level. He is a real gem.

The meal was an affordable total of £31.00. The Plat du Jour costs just £12 or £15.00 for two or three courses respectively.

Verdict: A cleverly conceived menu. Don’t wait another minute, pick up the ‘phone and book now. The quality and creativity of the food is exceptional, and the Star Bistro is a really worthwhile enterprise to support.

website address is www.starbistro.org and the phone number is 01242 535984.

Review - Le Beaujolais Cirencester

Le Beaujolais – Cirencester

After weeks of red, white and blue ‘Jubilee Mania’, eating British and Commonwealth inspired food in abundance, you may have forgotten that our near neighbours gave us the building blocks of our contemporary tastes in cookery. No cuisine is more influential than French.

Once-upon-a-time, traditional Bistro’s were to be found in every town, but with on-going trends towards international influences, homely French fare has become hard to find.  Of course there are “Franglais” style chains and expensive fine dining but I mourn the lack of authentic French restaurants offering “La Cuisine de Maman”. Thankfully, I was introduced to Le Beaujolais.

The two-floor establishment on Castle Street is simply and patriotically decorated. Tricolour bunting and a map of France adorn the wall. This is full-on Français, slightly stereotypical without feeling like a theme park. The restaurant was reassuringly packed with locals, including a Frenchman at the next table. I greedily eyed up his heaped bowl of bouillabaisse and resisted pouncing on him, demanding mussels and fish, topped with Sauce Rouille.

I ordered Cuisses de Grenouille (Frogs Legs) and a couple of fine specimens were placed before me, dripping in garlic parsley butter. Anyone who tells the uninitiated that Frogs Legs taste of chicken is being inaccurate in their description; the flavour is far more delicate. Mr. N chose an exemplary Duck and Fois Gras terrine that was a revelation in taste. Packed with dense, foresty herb notes, this was a very superior Pate.

My main course of Calves Liver was perfectly cooked – pink – and the deep sticky jus took my taste buds on a trip to Paris and back. I recommend this as a standout selection. My husband was seduced by a dish of the day; Veal in cream, mushrooms and white wine. Robust and rustic, it hit the spot but he still cast an envious eye at my plate.

We quaffed a hearty Haute Vallee de L’Aude “Les Volet” (Malbec) which matched our meal perfectly. As a total Francophile, I entered the spirit of the occasion and was happily humming La Vie en Rose, in the style of Edith Piaf, between courses.

Pudding was an intense Chocolate Mousse, as recommended to me by Jenny, the Floor Manager. I like to challenge staff to recommend a dessert; they have taste-tested their way through the menu. My instinct was right; the mousse was outstanding. Mr. N. chose Mille Feuilles, layers of light sweet pastry sandwiched together with cream and fruit, and pronounced it delicious.

Le Beaujolais opened two years ago yet has the atmosphere of a well-established eatery. The owners are Eric (Chef) and Kiean (Front of House) and their partnership is one of long-standing, having worked together in France for many years. The Menu Prix-Fixe is £13.50/£15.75 for 2 and 3 courses respectively. This features seasonal favourites with typical French flair, such as Pheasant Casserole and Grey Mullet with Ratatouille. They also host “Club des Amis”, a regular event to practice French language skills whilst enjoying delicious food. Two courses cost £12.50.

Verdict: The philosophy at Le Beaujolais is “food cooked with love and care” and this is reflected on the plate. A simple menu, but not as artless as it seems, relying on complexity, layers of flavour and traditional techniques. An authentic, welcoming French restaurant.

Ellenborough Park - Cheltenham Winner of The World Travel Awards UK Leading Country House Hotel 2011

All expectations exceeded - Ali Nightingale eats at Ellenborough Park and concludes that everything is in the best possible taste.

When pondering which Cotswold restaurant to review, I was keen to try somewhere new to me. It was suggested that I try The Brasserie at Ellenborough Park.

Ellenborough Park opened in March 2011. It’s already been voted The World Travel Awards UK Leading Country House Hotel, and yet I had still not set foot in the immaculately refurbished hotel, majestically overlooking Cheltenham Racecourse. I had an incorrect perception that the restaurants might be a little rich for my pocket, but keen to try somewhere that takes customer service and food seriously, I made a reservation in the informal Brasserie.

Approaching the magnificent façade, I was in awe of the stunning renovation. However, any ill-judged preconceptions of discomforting grandeur are deceiving - the moment we stepped over the threshold, the warm greeting from the professional yet relaxed and friendly staff made me feel genuinely welcomed and comfortable.

The exposed stone, warm wood, heritage paintwork and leather bar stools in the Brasserie Bar create an informal ambiance. The ‘Sporting Life’ themed artwork that adorns the walls pays homage to the heritage of racing and the sporting ethic so beloved in Gloucestershire. The bar offers excellent beers, premium spirit brands and impressive wines. Delicious nibbles of homemade crisps and a simple yet sensational antipasto of olives, peppers and pickled lemon rind were offered and gratefully devoured.

Dinner in The Brasserie was a three-course affair: I opted for the excellent value set menu at £19.95 whilst Mr N ordered with a free hand. His Scallops with a Basil Pesto and Noodles recommended by the Manager was fresh and delicately flavoured as promised. My Game Terrine was substantial and delicious. I followed this with a winter appropriate Slow-Roast Duck Leg with braised red cabbage and perfect Dauphinoise Potatoes alongside, in a single-serve pan. Mr N’s Cod Cheeks with a well-balanced tartare sauce were a big hit.

Needless to say we shared throughout; forks passed across the table to accompanying murmurs of “that is so good”! My husband then hit the jackpot with a memorable Orange Bread & Butter Pudding. I was slightly aggrieved that Mr. N hogged his dessert and I was only allowed one mouthful. We especially liked the good value Klein Steenberg House Wine, unquestionably selected on the basis of quality and taste rather than price consideration.

Chef David Kelman popped out of his kitchen and we talked about his passion for sourcing and showcasing local ingredients. His menu achieves this aim admirably.

We then chatted to a delightful couple at an adjacent table (that’s the relaxed atmosphere of The Brasserie at work - we bonded over mutual appreciation of the Riedel wine glasses). Discerning visitors from overseas, they waxed lyrical about their Ellenborough experience. I felt rather hard done by that I had to go home at the end of the evening, desperately wanting to stay in the welcoming cocoon of Ellenborough Park. It offers delicious food, splendour without pretentiousness, and staff that you want to add to your Christmas card list. If ever they want a “Writer in Residence” I am there, ready to taste-test the entire menu.

My mantra is “Never economise on luxury” but The Brasserie is agreeably affordable, especially the set menu (available Monday-Thursday).

Verdict:
A relaxed and praiseworthy dining experience, living up to Ellenborough Park’s promised standards, and deserving of an appreciative, wider clientele. Special commendation to Brasserie Manager, Antonio Sanchez - an absolute superstar in cordial and professional hospitality. He effortlessly sets the tone for an enjoyable experience.

Reviewed February 2012