The Star Bistro - Ullenwood nr. Cheltenham
The National Star College is a specialist educational
facility that enables people with disabilities to fulfil their potential
through education and practical vocational skills. I was fascinated to learn
about a new partnership with the Wriggly Worm Charity. The Star Bistro, which
opened earlier this year, is the worthy result of their joint venture.
Social entrepreneur, Rob Rees MBE, heads the Wiggly Worm. It promotes health and self esteem amongst
the disadvantaged. Rob was determined that his collaboration with the Star
College would be a valid, cost effective proposition that served superb quality
local food, as well as teaching skills to the students. Rob is one of the most
motivational food professionals I have ever met, his enthusiasm and
determination to use his knowledge and influence for the good of people, as
well as promoting a local and sustainable supply chain, is both contagious and
impressive.
Chef Matt Black, patiently demonstrated techniques as he tutored
the Star College students, preparing the ingredients and dressing the plates
with immaculate precision. I love an open kitchen, but in this instance it was
a real insight to the meaningful work. Most pro-kitchens are noisy, frantic,
even stressful, but here at the Star Bistro all was cool, calm and collected.
We ate there in mid June and every mouthful sang a song of
summer, the menu leans towards a light lunch selection so we managed to devour
three courses. Every morsel was a delight.
I began with a hearty pate, perfectly seasoned with local
herbs, and Mr N had an attractive Onion Tarte Tatin with Goats Cheese Mousse.
Quite frankly, both were stunning.
My main course was a warm vegetarian seasonal salad, perfectly
prepared. Asparagus, broad beans and pea, in a light hollandaise, and topped
with poached Star chicken egg (the chickens are cared for by the students). It
was a pleasure to eat. My husband’s veal shin croquette was more delicate than
expected, and served with a sauce gribiche.
Pudding was a revelation; so simple I couldn’t understand
why I had never had it before. Fresh summer berries, topped with a whisked warm
Marsala sabayon, and flashed under a grill. Totally heavenly.
I could quite happily return and eat here twice a month,
with an ever-changing seasonal menu. Also featured were humble bacon butties,
with locally butchered bacon, and an artisan cheese selection if you want an
unassuming snack.
Rob Rees is the guiding light and driving force behind the
enterprise, and I left with enough material for three interviews, but I
especially want to praise the man behind the stove, Matt Black. My overall
impression was that Matt is not only an excellent chef (and one who has a
magical touch with herbs) but watching him work calmly and patiently with his
small team of eager students, he impressed me on another level. He is a real
gem.
The meal was an affordable total of £31.00. The Plat du Jour
costs just £12 or £15.00 for two or three courses respectively.
Verdict: A cleverly conceived menu. Don’t wait another
minute, pick up the ‘phone and book now. The quality and creativity of the food
is exceptional, and the Star Bistro is a really worthwhile enterprise to
support.
website address is www.starbistro.org and the phone number is 01242 535984.
