Spring salad with cantaloupe, raspberries, prosciutto and white balsamic vinaigrette

For the vinaigrette: 
5 tablespoons olive oil 
2 tablespoons white balsamic vinegar
1 teaspoon honey
1 garlic clove, peeled and minced
pinch of sea salt
Pinch of freshly cracked pepper

In a jar, add the olive oil, vinegar, honey, garlic, salt and pepper and shake to combine; set aside.

For the salad:
¼ cup hazelnuts nuts, toasted in frying pan for 2 minutes
4 handfuls of fresh herb salad, washed and dried
1 cup of cherry or grape tomatoes, cut in half
1 cup raspberries
½ cup figs, cut in bite size pieces
½ cantaloupe melon, spooned into balls or cubed
4 slices of prosciutto
Shaved Parmesan cheese to taste

To assemble:
Divide the salad greens among 4 plates. Add equal amounts of tomatoes, raspberries, figs, and cantaloupe. Drizzle the salads with the vinaigrette and top with shaved cheese and hazelnuts.

Fig, shallot and chilli compote

Now this is impressive. Saute a couple of finely chopped shallots with a couple of chopped chillies for about 5 minutes, quarter ten figs and add to the pan, top up with a cup of water and the juice of half a lemon, add about 75g of jam sugar and boil gently for about 10 minutes. Store in sterilised jars. Amazing with goats cheese.

Review - The Star Bistro, National Star College, Ullenwood

The Star Bistro - Ullenwood nr. Cheltenham

The National Star College is a specialist educational facility that enables people with disabilities to fulfil their potential through education and practical vocational skills. I was fascinated to learn about a new partnership with the Wriggly Worm Charity. The Star Bistro, which opened earlier this year, is the worthy result of their joint venture.

Social entrepreneur, Rob Rees MBE, heads the Wiggly Worm.  It promotes health and self esteem amongst the disadvantaged. Rob was determined that his collaboration with the Star College would be a valid, cost effective proposition that served superb quality local food, as well as teaching skills to the students. Rob is one of the most motivational food professionals I have ever met, his enthusiasm and determination to use his knowledge and influence for the good of people, as well as promoting a local and sustainable supply chain, is both contagious and impressive.

Chef Matt Black, patiently demonstrated techniques as he tutored the Star College students, preparing the ingredients and dressing the plates with immaculate precision. I love an open kitchen, but in this instance it was a real insight to the meaningful work. Most pro-kitchens are noisy, frantic, even stressful, but here at the Star Bistro all was cool, calm and collected.

We ate there in mid June and every mouthful sang a song of summer, the menu leans towards a light lunch selection so we managed to devour three courses. Every morsel was a delight.   

I began with a hearty pate, perfectly seasoned with local herbs, and Mr N had an attractive Onion Tarte Tatin with Goats Cheese Mousse. Quite frankly, both were stunning.

My main course was a warm vegetarian seasonal salad, perfectly prepared. Asparagus, broad beans and pea, in a light hollandaise, and topped with poached Star chicken egg (the chickens are cared for by the students). It was a pleasure to eat. My husband’s veal shin croquette was more delicate than expected, and served with a sauce gribiche.

Pudding was a revelation; so simple I couldn’t understand why I had never had it before. Fresh summer berries, topped with a whisked warm Marsala sabayon, and flashed under a grill. Totally heavenly.

I could quite happily return and eat here twice a month, with an ever-changing seasonal menu. Also featured were humble bacon butties, with locally butchered bacon, and an artisan cheese selection if you want an unassuming snack.

Rob Rees is the guiding light and driving force behind the enterprise, and I left with enough material for three interviews, but I especially want to praise the man behind the stove, Matt Black. My overall impression was that Matt is not only an excellent chef (and one who has a magical touch with herbs) but watching him work calmly and patiently with his small team of eager students, he impressed me on another level. He is a real gem.

The meal was an affordable total of £31.00. The Plat du Jour costs just £12 or £15.00 for two or three courses respectively.

Verdict: A cleverly conceived menu. Don’t wait another minute, pick up the ‘phone and book now. The quality and creativity of the food is exceptional, and the Star Bistro is a really worthwhile enterprise to support.

website address is www.starbistro.org and the phone number is 01242 535984.

Chilli Fever

Chilli Fever 

Chorizo, Tomato, Lime and Chilli Tapas

I am besotted by Chilli. From sweet and smoky Chipotle, to the blistering bite of Bird’s Eye or Scotch Bonnet, I am hooked on hot stuff. They add spice to your life in more ways than one, for Chilli is considered to be an aphrodisiac. Chillies have astonishing health benefits, lowering blood sugar, boosting circulation and thinning the blood. They clear congestion, reduce inflammation, and researchers at Harvard University believe Capsaicin can be used to target pain receptors.

I had originally intended my recipe page this month to be dedicated to Chilli preserves. I recently made a quick Fig, Shallot & Chilli Chutney, and it was a triumph that I wanted to share. However, my plan to tempt you with a cheeky Chilli Jam was thwarted.

Just as I sat down to write this column, dedicated to my love affair with the jalapeno, I noticed a recipe for a super Chorizo, Tomato, Lime and Chilli Tapas concoction, courtesy of the Author, Jude Calvert-Toulmin. Jude won ‘Come Dine With Me’ last year, with her larger than life personality and an exotic menu. She is a good friend of mine, and a very accomplished and imaginative cook. I sought her permission to share her tapas with the readers of Cotswold Style.

This is a two-stage recipe; you must prepare the tomato, chilli, lime and garlic sauce first. For the tapas dish, the inclusion of half a cup of sauce is absolutely essential to get the right flavour. Without the sauce, this dish is a clear night sky. With the sauce, it's a clear night sky with a big shining full moon.

Tomato, Chilli, Lime and Garlic Sauce

Ingredients:

2 x 400gm tins chopped tomatoes

2 cups granulated sugar

1 cup red wine vinegar

5 cloves garlic, chopped finely

2 cups water

1 tablespoon virgin olive oil

1 tablespoon chilli powder

1 tablespoon garlic powder

6 tablespoons lime juice

A pinch of salt

First step is to sterilise a large jar. Gently fry the garlic in the oil for one minute. Add the rest of the ingredients and boil gently for about 20 minutes in a covered pan. Leave to cool then liquidise. Bring to boil again, take off heat and pour into the jar. Leave to cool, then put the lid on.

Chorizo, Tomato, Lime and Chilli Tapas

Ingredients:

300gm chorizo

500gm cherry tomatoes cut in half

5 cloves garlic, crushed

2 red bird's eye chillies, thinly sliced

1 tablespoon virgin olive oil

Handful of fresh basil, shredded

Half a cup of tomato, chilli, lime and garlic sauce.

Salt and pepper.

Slice chorizo 5mm thick. Gently fry in oil, turning over all the time, for 5 minutes. Add garlic and chilli then fry for another 30 seconds. Add tomatoes, seasoning and basil. Cook for another 8 minutes, still on a gentle - medium heat whilst stirring constantly. Serve with a hunk of warm bread.

*With thanks to Jude Calvert-Toulmin

Summer Bacon and Egg Salad with Hollandaise sauce

Summer Bacon and Egg Salad with Hollandaise sauce

It’s been one of those days. No time to shop, late home due to a cheeky Mohito with the girls after work, nothing exciting in the fridge and no inclination to produce the man-size meal my husband expects. I want a light supper, but I must conjure up something that will appeal to our very different appetites.

I have spent years trying to encourage my spouse to eat green food, and become particularly adept at trickery. A slight of hand, and I can fool my chap to believe that he is eating manly fare, not rabbit fodder. This month’s recipe is a magical warm garden salad that just sings of summer, rustled up from refrigerator basics. Abracadabra, we’ll have bacon and eggs, with a twist.

Ingredients (serves 2)

A selection of green vegetables

2 large eggs (sauce)

2 large eggs (for poaching)

10 ml of lemon juice

10 ml of white wine vinegar

4 oz butter

4 rashers of streaky bacon

Method:

Start with a melange of green vegetables. I chose garden peas and broad beans, freshly podded, the last of the summer asparagus, and fine beans. Spinach or tender-stem broccoli also work well.  Lightly boil or steam, then set aside.

Crisp the streaky bacon under the grill.

For your next trick, rustle up a hollandaise sauce. Now I am guessing that this is the point that you throw your hands into the air with frustration and curse me for telling you that this is an easy dish. Well, hollandaise is fairly straightforward, and certainly quick. I do not bother with a Bain Marie and hand-whisking until my wrist cramps; I use a blender. The doyenne of foolproof cookery, Delia Smith, swears by this method and I cannot argue with the UK’s best selling cookery author.

Place 2 large egg yolks in a blender and blitz for a minute. Heat 10 ml of white wine vinegar, 10 ml of lemon juice in a small pan until simmering point, then slowly add into the blender. Turn the blender off. Melt 4 oz of butter in the pan until the butter foams; do not allow it to brown. At this point add a pinch of salt and pepper. Turn the blender back on and add the butter in the slowest trickle possible. Make sure all the sauce has been incorporated. You will now have a smooth, thickened hollandaise. If this scares you, Waitrose sell it ready made.

Now poach an egg. As the sauce is creamy and wet, I prefer to take mine to the point just short of firm, but cook to your preference (my husband will settle for nothing less than a runny yolk.)

Plate up: Vegetables, topped with hollandaise, some bacon, and the egg as a final fanfare.

Ingredients (serves 2)

A selection of green vegetables

2 large eggs (sauce)

2 large eggs (poaching)

10 ml lemon juice

10 ml white wine vinegar

4 oz butter

4 rashers of streaky bacon

Very Berry Jubilee Trifle

Very Berry Jubilee Trifle

Is there anything more brazenly British than a trifle ?  Celebrations seem almost incomplete without this creamy, opulent pudding.  I love trifle; it’s naughty but nice.

Trifle is imbedded in my earliest memories; birthday parties, Christmas and special treats.  Does ‘Dream Topping’ and ‘Hundreds and Thousands’ ring any bells ?  But a proper homemade trifle is the food of the Gods. I’ve been known to tuck into leftovers at midnight; I may even have eaten it for breakfast on occasion.

The first trifle recipe dates from 1596; consisting of a sweetened ginger and rosewater scented cream.  Custard and sponge was added in the mid 17th Century.  Some purists insist that a trifle should never be made with a jelly, however 100 years later gelatin appeared in recipes so I think either version is acceptable and equally traditional.  If children are going to consume the trifle, a layer of fruit jelly is a welcome addition (although you might be wise to ignore the booze).

There is something rather regal about this dessert.  Even Queen Victoria was a lover of trifles and they were often served at Royal banquets.  A recent survey suggested that 37% of households intended to serve trifle at their Jubilee celebration.  Maybe this is not the most novel or original option, but it’s certainly a popular one.

So dig out the bunting from last year’s Royal Wedding, raise a commemorative glass of Pimm’s and embrace the theme: God Save the Queen.

You will need:

A pretty glass bowl

Boudoir biscuits

Chambord liqueur

A punnet of frozen raspberries or assorted berries

For the custard


Double cream 600ml


1 x Vanilla pod 


6
x egg yolks

3 x
tbsp Caster sugar

1 x tbsp Cornflour

To decorate


Whipping cream 750ml

Blueberries

Strawberries

The first step is to make the custard.  Warm the double cream and the vanilla pod in a saucepan on a gentle heat until almost boiling. Set aside, cover, and leave for 10 minutes.

In a separate bowl, blend the egg yolks, sugar and cornflour then whisk until pale.  Pour in the warmed cream, removing the vanilla pod, and stir constantly.  Transfer to the saucepan in which you heated the cream, continue to stir over a low heat, and keep stirring until the custard warms and thickens.  Remove and allow to cool.

Line your serving bowl with the boudoir biscuits, and throw in half of the frozen fruit.  Slice a few strawberries to decorate the sides of the bowl.  Add a generous amount of the Chambord liqueur over the fruit and biscuits.  Heat the remainder of the fruit with a couple of spoonfuls of sugar and another splash of the liqueur and heat until it become a loose, slightly jammy compote, and spoon into the bowl over the frozen fruit.

Add a layer of cooled custard, and top with whipped cream.  Decorate with strawberries and blueberries in the design of the Union Flag.

Chill, and try hard to resist eating immediately.

Review - Le Beaujolais Cirencester

Le Beaujolais – Cirencester

After weeks of red, white and blue ‘Jubilee Mania’, eating British and Commonwealth inspired food in abundance, you may have forgotten that our near neighbours gave us the building blocks of our contemporary tastes in cookery. No cuisine is more influential than French.

Once-upon-a-time, traditional Bistro’s were to be found in every town, but with on-going trends towards international influences, homely French fare has become hard to find.  Of course there are “Franglais” style chains and expensive fine dining but I mourn the lack of authentic French restaurants offering “La Cuisine de Maman”. Thankfully, I was introduced to Le Beaujolais.

The two-floor establishment on Castle Street is simply and patriotically decorated. Tricolour bunting and a map of France adorn the wall. This is full-on Français, slightly stereotypical without feeling like a theme park. The restaurant was reassuringly packed with locals, including a Frenchman at the next table. I greedily eyed up his heaped bowl of bouillabaisse and resisted pouncing on him, demanding mussels and fish, topped with Sauce Rouille.

I ordered Cuisses de Grenouille (Frogs Legs) and a couple of fine specimens were placed before me, dripping in garlic parsley butter. Anyone who tells the uninitiated that Frogs Legs taste of chicken is being inaccurate in their description; the flavour is far more delicate. Mr. N chose an exemplary Duck and Fois Gras terrine that was a revelation in taste. Packed with dense, foresty herb notes, this was a very superior Pate.

My main course of Calves Liver was perfectly cooked – pink – and the deep sticky jus took my taste buds on a trip to Paris and back. I recommend this as a standout selection. My husband was seduced by a dish of the day; Veal in cream, mushrooms and white wine. Robust and rustic, it hit the spot but he still cast an envious eye at my plate.

We quaffed a hearty Haute Vallee de L’Aude “Les Volet” (Malbec) which matched our meal perfectly. As a total Francophile, I entered the spirit of the occasion and was happily humming La Vie en Rose, in the style of Edith Piaf, between courses.

Pudding was an intense Chocolate Mousse, as recommended to me by Jenny, the Floor Manager. I like to challenge staff to recommend a dessert; they have taste-tested their way through the menu. My instinct was right; the mousse was outstanding. Mr. N. chose Mille Feuilles, layers of light sweet pastry sandwiched together with cream and fruit, and pronounced it delicious.

Le Beaujolais opened two years ago yet has the atmosphere of a well-established eatery. The owners are Eric (Chef) and Kiean (Front of House) and their partnership is one of long-standing, having worked together in France for many years. The Menu Prix-Fixe is £13.50/£15.75 for 2 and 3 courses respectively. This features seasonal favourites with typical French flair, such as Pheasant Casserole and Grey Mullet with Ratatouille. They also host “Club des Amis”, a regular event to practice French language skills whilst enjoying delicious food. Two courses cost £12.50.

Verdict: The philosophy at Le Beaujolais is “food cooked with love and care” and this is reflected on the plate. A simple menu, but not as artless as it seems, relying on complexity, layers of flavour and traditional techniques. An authentic, welcoming French restaurant.

Salted Caramel Choc Chip Brownies and Vanilla Bean Caramel Sauce

Salted Caramel Choc Chip Brownies and Vanilla Bean Caramel Sauce

One of my foodie obsessions in recent years has been Salted Caramel.  I noticed it creeping onto menus and cookery shows several years ago, then a few chocolate, salt and caramel combinations started to appear on the supermarket shelves and my life was complete.

I’ve since added a wonderful Caramel Sauce to my cooking repertoire - I often use it as a topping for Vanilla ice-cream.  However a sauce needs a plate mate, so I have been experimenting with tray bakes and brownies.  This is the nicest recipe that I found and it incorporates the caramel sauce as an ingredient.

The original recipe used a sauce made from melted shop bought soft toffees but I prefer to make my own.  If you choose to cheat, use 300g of soft toffees with three teaspoons of cream, microwaved for 2 minutes (stir every 20 seconds).

Ingredients Caramel Sauce

225 g granulated sugar

295 ml double cream

1/4 tsp sea salt

1 tsp vanilla extract

1 vanilla pod

Method

Heat the sugar over a low heat.  When the sugar begins to bubble and melt around the edges, use a heatproof spatula to push the sugar towards the centre of the pan.  Continue to stir gently until all the sugar has melted. Once the caramel reaches a deep amber colour, quickly remove the pan from the heat.  Take care not to overcook; a burnt sauce is bitter, unpleasant and pretty much unusable.

Pour in half of the cream, whilst whisking hard (the sauce will bubble actively).  Stir until incorporated, and then whisk in the remaining cream. Stir in the vanilla extract, seeds from the pod and the salt. 

If any hard sugar has formed, stir the caramel over a very low heat until the hardened pieces have melted and you have a smooth sauce.

Decant any leftover sauce into jars and store in the ‘fridge.

Ingredients Brownies

315 g plain flour


1/2 tsp table salt


1/2 tsp baking powder

175 g butter, melted, cooled

175 g light brown sugar


100 g granulated sugar


1 large egg


1 large egg yolk


2 teaspoons vanilla extract


200 g chocolate chips
(this can be expensive so I chop bars of chocolate into chunks by hand)

Caramel sauce (see recipe)

Sea salt, for sprinkling

Method

Prepare by preheating oven to 170 C and lining a deep sided 11” tray with baking parchment.  Mix flour, table salt and baking powder.  In a separate bowl mix butter and sugars, then add eggs and vanilla and mix a little more.  Add flour and combine, then stir in chocolate chips.

Put half the cookie dough in the pan, then top with a layer of caramel sauce, sprinkled with sea salt.  Add the additional dough until covered, and a little more sea salt on top.

Bake for half an hour and allow to cool a little.

Serve the brownies warm with good quality Vanilla ice-cream, drizzled with  Caramel Sauce.

REVIEW : THE SUFFOLK KITCHEN - CHELTENHAM

Seasonal food at The Suffolk Kitchen……Ali Nightingale finds the restaurant has all the right ingredients.

It takes a bold and confident caterer, one who knows his onions, to open a new restaurant in a town that is brimming with eateries of all descriptions, but Cheltenham is lucky to have Simon Davies raising his head above the economic parapet, for he is a man with his finger on the pulse of ethical food trends.

Whilst many restaurants pay lip service to seasonal and local produce, it is the central ethos behind his recently opened Suffolk Kitchen, at the heart of every dish.  This is not just a fashionable food philosophy; any chef worth their salt knows that the best tastes are coaxed from food without air miles, fresh from the local terrain.  The Suffolk Kitchen also source meat reared within shouting distance of the Cotswold Hills, which benefits the local economy.  

I was impressed by the ‘Brit Crop’ sensibility of the menu, but there was also a definite hint of European flair added to the indigenous ingredients.  Starters included a soufflé made with Hereford Hop Cheese, and Ox Cheek with an oyster reduction and radish salad (Beef and Oyster is such an Olde English combination, yet this assembly of ingredients was modern to the max).  The clever balance of traditional and contemporary British cooking is what makes the Suffolk Kitchen a stand-out establishment for me.

Mr. N got his selection spot on, homing in on the Pigeon Breast and wild garlic blini, served with red wine jus.  I cheekily pilfered half of his portion; one bite was just not enough.  The pigeon was moist, delicately gamey, with the almost liver like texture that a good chef can achieve when the cooking is timed perfectly.  The blini pancake was light as a cloud, with a gentle hint of wild garlic.  I asked Simon where they sourced the herb – I can never find it - and was informed that it was foraged that morning from a local green space.  Now that is proactive regional sourcing at its best.  I chose a simple seasonal cauliflower soup, which was given another textural dimension with the addition of Simon Weaver (Artisan Cheese-maker) Blue Brie profiteroles.

The Chef’s signature pork tenderloin did not disappoint; I have never eaten such a tender hog.  This was served with a black pudding mash, but the star of the show was (as always) on my husband’s plate.  His fillet steak was perfect, but the accompanying little choux puffs stuffed with Hereford snails were memorable and exquisite.

Puddings were a delight, and I was not surprised to find out that chef Gareth Blackmore was a pastry specialist.  Top marks for the homemade white chocolate ice-cream.

We loved the ambience of the restaurant; a smart yet homely space.  Service was attentive and helpful, linens are crisp and white, the wine list is superb value (I applaud SK selling English wines from the local Three Choirs vineyard) and the set menu available at lunchtime and early doors is easy on the pocket at £14.95 for 3 courses, including a glass of wine.

Verdict: A relaxed atmosphere and affordable, exciting menu is a winning combination.  A cut-above the usual Bistro experience.  The fresh and local produce in the hands of a skilled chef delivers on flavour, concept and style.  Highly recommended.

Feta Cheese Spring Salad Tarts

Feta Cheese Spring Salad Tarts             

Quick. Easy. Cheap. Three little words that rock my culinary world when I am short on time and funds. As addicted as I am to cooking, I don’t always have the inclination to slave over meals, and I am turning to vegetarian dishes more often, in frustration at the cost of meat.

Yet this is not an austerity recipe; there is nothing that tastes frugal or lacking in this tasty little tart that would happily grace the table of any fashionable Bistro. It’s simplicity on a plate; fresh and fragrant as a sunny day, and utilising my diet tip of ready-made light puff pastry, cuts down on calories as well as preparation time.

Ingredients:

1 sheet shop-bought light puff pastry, thawed

250g Feta Cheese, crumbled

Small jar of marinated artichoke hearts

1 egg, beaten

100g yellow & red cherry tomatoes

120g frozen peas, thawed

Mint leaves

Olive oil

Balsamic vinegar

Feel free to substitute any of the ingredients to suit your preference. Mozzarella and Basil will work just as well, and for those of you that cannot imagine a meal with meat, perhaps add some crispy bacon. If you don’t like artichokes, you could substitute with asparagus.

Method:

Preheat the oven to 200 C.

Cut the pastry into 4 rectangles, and score a half-inch border inside each square. Place the pieces on a baking tray lined with parchment and top with feta and artichoke hearts. Brush the borders with the egg wash and bake for 12-15 minutes, until golden.

Prepare the salad. Halve the tomatoes, place in a bowl with the peas and ripped up mint leaves. Drizzle with a little balsamic vinegar and olive oil. When the hot tarts are removed from the oven, top with the salad. Season and serve immediately.

Cod with Black Olive Dressing

Cod with Black Olive Dressing

Writing about food for Cotswold Style, and in a constant creative cooking frenzy, I found myself with a body shaped like one of those huge luxury Easter Eggs you see in the window of fancy chocolate shops.  I had taken my eye off the ball whilst taste testing cream buns, and something had to change.  So, setting myself a challenge of “can diet food be delicious” I have been dabbling with lower calorie meals that tempt my taste buds whilst whittling away at my waistline.

In my newfound spirit of healthy eating, fish is just the kind of food I fancy at the moment.  It took me forty something years to become a fully fledged fish aficionado and I am now making up for lost time and not just saving fish for Friday.

I think what I love most about fish, is the speed and simplicity in which I can prepare a quick supper.  I am also discarding my food snobbery and have subsequently discovered that frozen fish can be a good friend to the busy cook, and is often surprisingly inexpensive (three cheers for Aldi frozen Sea Bass fillets at £2.99 for two).

However, we have Good Friday to think about so my fishy offering this month is Cod.  I choose Marine Stewardship Council (MSC) certified line caught Cod in an attempt to be ethical about my choice. 

Cod and olives are a wonderful partnership and a traditional Mediterranean combination.  This meal is almost effortless, and the end result is elegant and stylish.  I usually serve with a freshly made ratatouille or a salad.  If you are especially diet conscious, just use a little less of the olive oil dressing.

Serves 4



Ingredients

100g x black olives


200ml x good olive oil


A few radishes, sliced

Chives for garnish


4  x cod fillets, about 150-175g each


Salt and pepper

Splash of white wine



Method

Blitz the olives and oil for a few seconds, or simply chop olives and mix with oil. Set aside.

Preheat the oven to 220 C (200 for fan oven), season the fish and wrap individually in foil with a splash of white wine, until cooked; this will take about 12-15 minutes. 
To serve, plate the fish and garnish with the sliced radishes and chives. Drizzle with the blended oil (this will have separated, like a vinaigrette)