BREAKFAST IN BED - Mrs Nightingale's Valentine Recipe for Love

Orange Ricotta Hotcakes with Passion Fruit and Honeycomb Butter

Dear Reader. With romance and Valentine’s Day on my mind, let me tell you about the moment that I fell hopelessly, head over heels in love.

I walked into a café in the Darlinghurst district of Sydney in desperate need of sustenance, specifically a satisfying breakfast. The prawn porridge served on the Korean airline that transported me across the world had (unsurprisingly) not tantalised my taste buds and I was starving.

I was approached by a waiter; a handsome, sun kissed Adonis. Tongue tied, unsettled by his good looks and ravenously hungry, I begged to be fed. “It’s got to be the Ricotta Hotcakes” I was told. Thus began a never-ending love affair with these addictive fluffy little clouds of breakfast heaven.

The café was called Bill’s, the iconic establishment run by the renowned chef, Bill Granger. His definitive hotcake recipe is the best I have ever tasted, the benchmark in breakfast pancakes; lighter than many American recipes, more substantial than a European crêpe.

In Australia, these wonderful breakfast pancakes are a staple on almost every brunch menu. Back at home in Blighty, I usually have to make my own but I’m delighted to report that they are straightforward to prepare. I like to put my own spin on classic recipes, and for this occasion there is no more appropriate ingredient than Passion Fruit. Cotswold Stylists may recall that I provided a recipe for honeycomb (December issue) which you will need for the butter, but you can cheat and use a Crunchie with the chocolate removed.


Ingredients
Hotcakes (x8)
225g ricotta cheese
170 mls milk
4 eggs separated
1 small orange, zested
150 g plain flour
1 tsp baking powder
Pinch of salt
50 g butter
2 Passion fruits
Icing sugar


Honeycomb butter

150 g butter
50 g honeycomb – crushed
1 tablespoon of honey


Method

First make the honeycomb butter. Place ingredients in a processor and blitz. Shape into a log in clingfilm and chill in the fridge for 2 hours.

Place ricotta, milk and egg yolks in a bowl and incorporate. Sift flour, baking powder, orange zest and salt into another bowl. Add to the ricotta mixture and combine.

Beat egg whites in a clean dry bowl until stiff peaks form. Fold egg whites through batter in two batches, with a large metal spoon.

Grease a large non-stick frying pan with a small portion of the butter and drop 2 tablespoons of batter per hotcake into the pan (don’t cook more than 3 per batch).

Cook on low/medium heat for approximately 3 minutes each side until set and golden. To serve, drizzle the flesh of the passion fruit, add a little honeycomb butter and dust with icing sugar.

So why not treat your loved one to breakfast in bed on February 14th. Score extra Cupid points with a breakfast tray adorned with a flower, a card and the promise of more Passion Fruit pancakes to come.

NB: To the person that asked if the pink tulip was edible on the Facebook Speakeasy page, it's made of spun sugar, unicorn horn, and fairy kisses !!!!

Come Dine With Me

Photo rights: JCT

Sheffield based author, photographer & publisher Jude Calvert-Toulmin wins Come Dine With Me.

Link to Jude's blogspot including an interview about her CDWM experience. www.judecalverttoulmin.blogspot.com

Jude is a friend who I initially met about ten years ago via the wonders of the web; another social networking nut, she and I bonded over a love of Big Brother, a spookily similar life path, and more recently a love of food.

Having been fortunate enough to be a guest at one of her rather brilliant parties, I can confirm that this multi talented woman is a great hostess and a damned fine cook. She and her husband Brian have an innate talent for bringing people together and surrounding them with food, smiles and music in the most convivial fashion.

Our passion for Big Brother may have faded, but our friendships grows stronger, as does her lust for life.

Congratulations Jude, your win was justly deserved. Proud of you and your tits looked great on TV !

Ellenborough Park - Cheltenham Winner of The World Travel Awards UK Leading Country House Hotel 2011

All expectations exceeded - Ali Nightingale eats at Ellenborough Park and concludes that everything is in the best possible taste.

When pondering which Cotswold restaurant to review, I was keen to try somewhere new to me. It was suggested that I try The Brasserie at Ellenborough Park.

Ellenborough Park opened in March 2011. It’s already been voted The World Travel Awards UK Leading Country House Hotel, and yet I had still not set foot in the immaculately refurbished hotel, majestically overlooking Cheltenham Racecourse. I had an incorrect perception that the restaurants might be a little rich for my pocket, but keen to try somewhere that takes customer service and food seriously, I made a reservation in the informal Brasserie.

Approaching the magnificent façade, I was in awe of the stunning renovation. However, any ill-judged preconceptions of discomforting grandeur are deceiving - the moment we stepped over the threshold, the warm greeting from the professional yet relaxed and friendly staff made me feel genuinely welcomed and comfortable.

The exposed stone, warm wood, heritage paintwork and leather bar stools in the Brasserie Bar create an informal ambiance. The ‘Sporting Life’ themed artwork that adorns the walls pays homage to the heritage of racing and the sporting ethic so beloved in Gloucestershire. The bar offers excellent beers, premium spirit brands and impressive wines. Delicious nibbles of homemade crisps and a simple yet sensational antipasto of olives, peppers and pickled lemon rind were offered and gratefully devoured.

Dinner in The Brasserie was a three-course affair: I opted for the excellent value set menu at £19.95 whilst Mr N ordered with a free hand. His Scallops with a Basil Pesto and Noodles recommended by the Manager was fresh and delicately flavoured as promised. My Game Terrine was substantial and delicious. I followed this with a winter appropriate Slow-Roast Duck Leg with braised red cabbage and perfect Dauphinoise Potatoes alongside, in a single-serve pan. Mr N’s Cod Cheeks with a well-balanced tartare sauce were a big hit.

Needless to say we shared throughout; forks passed across the table to accompanying murmurs of “that is so good”! My husband then hit the jackpot with a memorable Orange Bread & Butter Pudding. I was slightly aggrieved that Mr. N hogged his dessert and I was only allowed one mouthful. We especially liked the good value Klein Steenberg House Wine, unquestionably selected on the basis of quality and taste rather than price consideration.

Chef David Kelman popped out of his kitchen and we talked about his passion for sourcing and showcasing local ingredients. His menu achieves this aim admirably.

We then chatted to a delightful couple at an adjacent table (that’s the relaxed atmosphere of The Brasserie at work - we bonded over mutual appreciation of the Riedel wine glasses). Discerning visitors from overseas, they waxed lyrical about their Ellenborough experience. I felt rather hard done by that I had to go home at the end of the evening, desperately wanting to stay in the welcoming cocoon of Ellenborough Park. It offers delicious food, splendour without pretentiousness, and staff that you want to add to your Christmas card list. If ever they want a “Writer in Residence” I am there, ready to taste-test the entire menu.

My mantra is “Never economise on luxury” but The Brasserie is agreeably affordable, especially the set menu (available Monday-Thursday).

Verdict:
A relaxed and praiseworthy dining experience, living up to Ellenborough Park’s promised standards, and deserving of an appreciative, wider clientele. Special commendation to Brasserie Manager, Antonio Sanchez - an absolute superstar in cordial and professional hospitality. He effortlessly sets the tone for an enjoyable experience.

Reviewed February 2012