Original article from March 2009
Having wanted to visit Purnell's for a while, we finally had the excuse. It was our wedding anniversary so what better occasion that this.
We don't have many great restaurants in our area and Purnell's is an hours drive, which limits how much we can enjoy their fine wine list.
Opting for the 7 course tasting menu (at a non credit crunch price tag of £65 a head) were were not to be disappointed. These delights included an amuse bouche of beetroot sorbet; the signature dish of poached egg yolk with haddock foam, curry oil and yep, cornflakes; pork belly paired (surprisingly well) with red mullet; a scrumptious pud of warm chocolate mousse and an iced passion fruit sorbet, and the now famous Great British Menu delight of a creme brulee (by any other name) served in eggshells.
Some of these new kitchen wunderkinds are Emperors without any clothes - but certainly not Glynn Purnell. There's a wit and whimsy to his inventive dishes that I thought I wouldn't necessarily enjoy (why does food need to be funny ?) but it's actually so unpretentious, so seemingly simple (although I am sure the methods are really complex), so tasty that I totally forgive the amusing take on breakfast during an evening out.
There's nothing high falutin' about this place; the decor is hip but not achingly trendy - it's comfortable and welcoming. The staff are all diamonds; friendly yet professional. Jean-Benoit in particular really knows his way round a wine list and persuaded me to indulge in the wine tasting menu which was full of delights and surprises and superb value for money.
Not the best meal of my life, but certainly in the top ten and I've been fortunate enough to eat in some of the best restaurants in France (nothing beats La Tupina !) and eaten crumbs off the tables of Messrs Ramsey & White and bowed at the feet of masters such as Michel & Albert Roux, Nico Ladenis, Kauffman and Mossiman.
I think Glynn Purnell is very very good, and he could become an all-time British great.
It wasn't a cheap evening, but it lived up to my expectations of being special - so all in all I think it's worth it. You don't have to spend as much - they offer a 3 course option for less than 40 quid, and they will recommend an affordable lesser known wine that will blow your mind as much as the pricier options.
Only niggle was that the service charge is built in. I really REALLY hate that.
I want to reward top notch service myself ( I had already taken £30 out of my purse as a tip before I saw that they had already included £28 service) and a fixed charge leaves a bit of a nasty taste in your mouth. I wish restaurants would understand that we will put our money where on mouth is, and don't need our arm twisted to do it.
However, that is not worth denying myself delicious food, and Purnell's aren't the only culprits to extort a tip in the guise of the bill. We will definitely visit again.
Update: we have returned twice since this review was written and have another date in the diary for my birthday - Purnell's never disappoints. And the Maitre 'D, Jean-Benoit is the most charming host ever - as yummy as the food !
