Review - The Star Bistro, National Star College, Ullenwood

The Star Bistro - Ullenwood nr. Cheltenham

The National Star College is a specialist educational facility that enables people with disabilities to fulfil their potential through education and practical vocational skills. I was fascinated to learn about a new partnership with the Wriggly Worm Charity. The Star Bistro, which opened earlier this year, is the worthy result of their joint venture.

Social entrepreneur, Rob Rees MBE, heads the Wiggly Worm.  It promotes health and self esteem amongst the disadvantaged. Rob was determined that his collaboration with the Star College would be a valid, cost effective proposition that served superb quality local food, as well as teaching skills to the students. Rob is one of the most motivational food professionals I have ever met, his enthusiasm and determination to use his knowledge and influence for the good of people, as well as promoting a local and sustainable supply chain, is both contagious and impressive.

Chef Matt Black, patiently demonstrated techniques as he tutored the Star College students, preparing the ingredients and dressing the plates with immaculate precision. I love an open kitchen, but in this instance it was a real insight to the meaningful work. Most pro-kitchens are noisy, frantic, even stressful, but here at the Star Bistro all was cool, calm and collected.

We ate there in mid June and every mouthful sang a song of summer, the menu leans towards a light lunch selection so we managed to devour three courses. Every morsel was a delight.   

I began with a hearty pate, perfectly seasoned with local herbs, and Mr N had an attractive Onion Tarte Tatin with Goats Cheese Mousse. Quite frankly, both were stunning.

My main course was a warm vegetarian seasonal salad, perfectly prepared. Asparagus, broad beans and pea, in a light hollandaise, and topped with poached Star chicken egg (the chickens are cared for by the students). It was a pleasure to eat. My husband’s veal shin croquette was more delicate than expected, and served with a sauce gribiche.

Pudding was a revelation; so simple I couldn’t understand why I had never had it before. Fresh summer berries, topped with a whisked warm Marsala sabayon, and flashed under a grill. Totally heavenly.

I could quite happily return and eat here twice a month, with an ever-changing seasonal menu. Also featured were humble bacon butties, with locally butchered bacon, and an artisan cheese selection if you want an unassuming snack.

Rob Rees is the guiding light and driving force behind the enterprise, and I left with enough material for three interviews, but I especially want to praise the man behind the stove, Matt Black. My overall impression was that Matt is not only an excellent chef (and one who has a magical touch with herbs) but watching him work calmly and patiently with his small team of eager students, he impressed me on another level. He is a real gem.

The meal was an affordable total of £31.00. The Plat du Jour costs just £12 or £15.00 for two or three courses respectively.

Verdict: A cleverly conceived menu. Don’t wait another minute, pick up the ‘phone and book now. The quality and creativity of the food is exceptional, and the Star Bistro is a really worthwhile enterprise to support.

website address is www.starbistro.org and the phone number is 01242 535984.