Ellenborough Park - Cheltenham Winner of The World Travel Awards UK Leading Country House Hotel 2011

All expectations exceeded - Ali Nightingale eats at Ellenborough Park and concludes that everything is in the best possible taste.

When pondering which Cotswold restaurant to review, I was keen to try somewhere new to me. It was suggested that I try The Brasserie at Ellenborough Park.

Ellenborough Park opened in March 2011. It’s already been voted The World Travel Awards UK Leading Country House Hotel, and yet I had still not set foot in the immaculately refurbished hotel, majestically overlooking Cheltenham Racecourse. I had an incorrect perception that the restaurants might be a little rich for my pocket, but keen to try somewhere that takes customer service and food seriously, I made a reservation in the informal Brasserie.

Approaching the magnificent façade, I was in awe of the stunning renovation. However, any ill-judged preconceptions of discomforting grandeur are deceiving - the moment we stepped over the threshold, the warm greeting from the professional yet relaxed and friendly staff made me feel genuinely welcomed and comfortable.

The exposed stone, warm wood, heritage paintwork and leather bar stools in the Brasserie Bar create an informal ambiance. The ‘Sporting Life’ themed artwork that adorns the walls pays homage to the heritage of racing and the sporting ethic so beloved in Gloucestershire. The bar offers excellent beers, premium spirit brands and impressive wines. Delicious nibbles of homemade crisps and a simple yet sensational antipasto of olives, peppers and pickled lemon rind were offered and gratefully devoured.

Dinner in The Brasserie was a three-course affair: I opted for the excellent value set menu at £19.95 whilst Mr N ordered with a free hand. His Scallops with a Basil Pesto and Noodles recommended by the Manager was fresh and delicately flavoured as promised. My Game Terrine was substantial and delicious. I followed this with a winter appropriate Slow-Roast Duck Leg with braised red cabbage and perfect Dauphinoise Potatoes alongside, in a single-serve pan. Mr N’s Cod Cheeks with a well-balanced tartare sauce were a big hit.

Needless to say we shared throughout; forks passed across the table to accompanying murmurs of “that is so good”! My husband then hit the jackpot with a memorable Orange Bread & Butter Pudding. I was slightly aggrieved that Mr. N hogged his dessert and I was only allowed one mouthful. We especially liked the good value Klein Steenberg House Wine, unquestionably selected on the basis of quality and taste rather than price consideration.

Chef David Kelman popped out of his kitchen and we talked about his passion for sourcing and showcasing local ingredients. His menu achieves this aim admirably.

We then chatted to a delightful couple at an adjacent table (that’s the relaxed atmosphere of The Brasserie at work - we bonded over mutual appreciation of the Riedel wine glasses). Discerning visitors from overseas, they waxed lyrical about their Ellenborough experience. I felt rather hard done by that I had to go home at the end of the evening, desperately wanting to stay in the welcoming cocoon of Ellenborough Park. It offers delicious food, splendour without pretentiousness, and staff that you want to add to your Christmas card list. If ever they want a “Writer in Residence” I am there, ready to taste-test the entire menu.

My mantra is “Never economise on luxury” but The Brasserie is agreeably affordable, especially the set menu (available Monday-Thursday).

Verdict:
A relaxed and praiseworthy dining experience, living up to Ellenborough Park’s promised standards, and deserving of an appreciative, wider clientele. Special commendation to Brasserie Manager, Antonio Sanchez - an absolute superstar in cordial and professional hospitality. He effortlessly sets the tone for an enjoyable experience.

Reviewed February 2012