bloomin' brilliant brownies | Jamie Oliver | Food | Recipes (UK)

Cheating here, but these are the best brownies on the planet, so thank you Jamie Oliver. I throw in additional choc chips, white and milk and dark chocolate, as well as the cherries, pecans, and add chopped hazlenuts too. I grate orange zest over the top to pop the flavours to another level.

bloomin' brilliant brownies | Jamie Oliver | Food | Recipes (UK)

Luscious Lemon Curd Cake

Nothing’s easier than a sponge. The rule was drummed into me at an early age -it’s equal weights of all of the primary ingredients. It almost doesn’t matter what you are making; a classic Victoria Sandwich, a Coffee and Walnut Cake, or even a Celebration Cake. I was honoured to make a wedding cake for a very close friend recently, and I chose to make one of the tiers out of a classic sponge flavoured with rosewater and vanilla. I slathered this with white chocolate ganache and decorated with fresh flowers, and I’m delighted to say it was a great success. Most important of all, it was easy.

For this issue of Cotswold Style I’m baking one of my personal favourites. I’m a sucker for all things citrus. Lemon cakes have an all-round appeal, which will hopefully have the rookies reaching for the mixing bowl. The recipe is so straightforward even the children can make this successfully, and the mix will make light and fluffy fairy cakes too.

Forgive me if I am teaching my Grandmother to suck eggs, but with the popularity of shows such as Great British Bake Off it seems that even the most kitchen phobic are getting in touch with their inner Marry Berry, so I present for your pleasure a simple sponge with a classic flavour and the American twist of added sour cream. This makes all cakes moist and seems to add a couple of days to their staying power, assuming there is anything left of such a delicious cake bar the crumbs. I’ve been baking every week for my workmates, and this recipe has been voted ‘cake of the month’ by my discerning colleagues.

Ingredients

275 g softened butter or ‘Stork’

275 g caster sugar

5 medium eggs

275 g sr flour

1 level teaspoon baking powder

I tablespoon lemon oil

2 tablespoons lemon curd for the batter, 1 tablespoon for the filling

2 tablespoons sour cream

Zest of one lemon

You will  need 2 x 8 ” tins

Method

Cream the butter and sugar in a large bowl until pale and fluffy. Add the eggs, one at a time and beat lightly. Then incorporate the lemon oil. Sift the flour and baking powder into the bowl and mix by hand, gently beating air lightly into the batter, or use an electric whisk on a fairly slow speed. Then add the lemon curd and sour cream, and about 15 ml of hot water. Split between 2 greased and lined tins. Bake the cake at 160 C for about 30 minutes, or until lightly golden on top. Test with a skewer to ensure the cake is cooked inside. Cool in the tins for 20 minutes, and then turn out into a rack. When completely cooled, sandwich together with the remaining lemon curd. Add some freshly whipped cream if you want to be especially decadent. You can also drizzle a wet lemon flavoured icing on top, to make the citrus flavour really pop.

In Praise of Cake

Love cake ?

Proper cakes, not those poncey little cupcakes and *spits* whoopie pies, or even worse - cake pops ? Me too. I make real cake, good old fashioned homemade slabs of coffee and walnut, Victoria Sponge and Lemon Drizzle.

I have been known to attend village fetes and elbow the old dears out of the way, clutching a fiver in my sticky paw, to be the first in the queue for a 6" high chocolate creation. Five Quid, the ingredients of my Chocolate Ganache cost me three times as much, so of course I am going to buy one for 500 new pence. The blood sweat and tears of the ladies at the W.I. always taste like a Mary Berry masterpiece.

Urban Cakes Coffee, Ginger and Pistachio creation - I've died and gone to heaven.

I was directed to this page championing Homemade cakes in London in The Telegraph, applauding good cake outlets in the Capital, and wanted to share. Urban Cakes looks the most appealing. Having a tea party and no time or inclination or skill to make your own impressive Banana Bread ? Then contact Julia at Urban, she will rustle up stunning treats on your behalf, and you can pretend it is your own handiwork. She promises not to tell.

I'd also like to suggest you try Clams Cakes too, they offer a postal service and their Carrot Cake is the food of the Gods. I have been known to send them as gifts to friends, not because I can't be bothered to bake, but because they are geared up to a decent postal service. My attempt at sending brownies through the post ended up with an unfortunate squashed package of damp crumbs. Ignore the fact that they also sell the cake pops and cupcakes I despise, someone out there likes them and there is obviously money to be made in momentary food fads.

Given the choice, I'll go for the traditional every time. Orange and Honey Syrup Cake from Urban Cakes has me dribbling, sight unseen.

Lemon Curd Cake from Clams in South Wales, available by post

My latest acquisition. A Smythson notebook for restaurant reviews. Love.

Spring salad with cantaloupe, raspberries, prosciutto and white balsamic vinaigrette

For the vinaigrette: 
5 tablespoons olive oil 
2 tablespoons white balsamic vinegar
1 teaspoon honey
1 garlic clove, peeled and minced
pinch of sea salt
Pinch of freshly cracked pepper

In a jar, add the olive oil, vinegar, honey, garlic, salt and pepper and shake to combine; set aside.

For the salad:
¼ cup hazelnuts nuts, toasted in frying pan for 2 minutes
4 handfuls of fresh herb salad, washed and dried
1 cup of cherry or grape tomatoes, cut in half
1 cup raspberries
½ cup figs, cut in bite size pieces
½ cantaloupe melon, spooned into balls or cubed
4 slices of prosciutto
Shaved Parmesan cheese to taste

To assemble:
Divide the salad greens among 4 plates. Add equal amounts of tomatoes, raspberries, figs, and cantaloupe. Drizzle the salads with the vinaigrette and top with shaved cheese and hazelnuts.

Fig, shallot and chilli compote

Now this is impressive. Saute a couple of finely chopped shallots with a couple of chopped chillies for about 5 minutes, quarter ten figs and add to the pan, top up with a cup of water and the juice of half a lemon, add about 75g of jam sugar and boil gently for about 10 minutes. Store in sterilised jars. Amazing with goats cheese.

Review - The Star Bistro, National Star College, Ullenwood

The Star Bistro - Ullenwood nr. Cheltenham

The National Star College is a specialist educational facility that enables people with disabilities to fulfil their potential through education and practical vocational skills. I was fascinated to learn about a new partnership with the Wriggly Worm Charity. The Star Bistro, which opened earlier this year, is the worthy result of their joint venture.

Social entrepreneur, Rob Rees MBE, heads the Wiggly Worm.  It promotes health and self esteem amongst the disadvantaged. Rob was determined that his collaboration with the Star College would be a valid, cost effective proposition that served superb quality local food, as well as teaching skills to the students. Rob is one of the most motivational food professionals I have ever met, his enthusiasm and determination to use his knowledge and influence for the good of people, as well as promoting a local and sustainable supply chain, is both contagious and impressive.

Chef Matt Black, patiently demonstrated techniques as he tutored the Star College students, preparing the ingredients and dressing the plates with immaculate precision. I love an open kitchen, but in this instance it was a real insight to the meaningful work. Most pro-kitchens are noisy, frantic, even stressful, but here at the Star Bistro all was cool, calm and collected.

We ate there in mid June and every mouthful sang a song of summer, the menu leans towards a light lunch selection so we managed to devour three courses. Every morsel was a delight.   

I began with a hearty pate, perfectly seasoned with local herbs, and Mr N had an attractive Onion Tarte Tatin with Goats Cheese Mousse. Quite frankly, both were stunning.

My main course was a warm vegetarian seasonal salad, perfectly prepared. Asparagus, broad beans and pea, in a light hollandaise, and topped with poached Star chicken egg (the chickens are cared for by the students). It was a pleasure to eat. My husband’s veal shin croquette was more delicate than expected, and served with a sauce gribiche.

Pudding was a revelation; so simple I couldn’t understand why I had never had it before. Fresh summer berries, topped with a whisked warm Marsala sabayon, and flashed under a grill. Totally heavenly.

I could quite happily return and eat here twice a month, with an ever-changing seasonal menu. Also featured were humble bacon butties, with locally butchered bacon, and an artisan cheese selection if you want an unassuming snack.

Rob Rees is the guiding light and driving force behind the enterprise, and I left with enough material for three interviews, but I especially want to praise the man behind the stove, Matt Black. My overall impression was that Matt is not only an excellent chef (and one who has a magical touch with herbs) but watching him work calmly and patiently with his small team of eager students, he impressed me on another level. He is a real gem.

The meal was an affordable total of £31.00. The Plat du Jour costs just £12 or £15.00 for two or three courses respectively.

Verdict: A cleverly conceived menu. Don’t wait another minute, pick up the ‘phone and book now. The quality and creativity of the food is exceptional, and the Star Bistro is a really worthwhile enterprise to support.

website address is www.starbistro.org and the phone number is 01242 535984.

Chilli Fever

Chilli Fever 

Chorizo, Tomato, Lime and Chilli Tapas

I am besotted by Chilli. From sweet and smoky Chipotle, to the blistering bite of Bird’s Eye or Scotch Bonnet, I am hooked on hot stuff. They add spice to your life in more ways than one, for Chilli is considered to be an aphrodisiac. Chillies have astonishing health benefits, lowering blood sugar, boosting circulation and thinning the blood. They clear congestion, reduce inflammation, and researchers at Harvard University believe Capsaicin can be used to target pain receptors.

I had originally intended my recipe page this month to be dedicated to Chilli preserves. I recently made a quick Fig, Shallot & Chilli Chutney, and it was a triumph that I wanted to share. However, my plan to tempt you with a cheeky Chilli Jam was thwarted.

Just as I sat down to write this column, dedicated to my love affair with the jalapeno, I noticed a recipe for a super Chorizo, Tomato, Lime and Chilli Tapas concoction, courtesy of the Author, Jude Calvert-Toulmin. Jude won ‘Come Dine With Me’ last year, with her larger than life personality and an exotic menu. She is a good friend of mine, and a very accomplished and imaginative cook. I sought her permission to share her tapas with the readers of Cotswold Style.

This is a two-stage recipe; you must prepare the tomato, chilli, lime and garlic sauce first. For the tapas dish, the inclusion of half a cup of sauce is absolutely essential to get the right flavour. Without the sauce, this dish is a clear night sky. With the sauce, it's a clear night sky with a big shining full moon.

Tomato, Chilli, Lime and Garlic Sauce

Ingredients:

2 x 400gm tins chopped tomatoes

2 cups granulated sugar

1 cup red wine vinegar

5 cloves garlic, chopped finely

2 cups water

1 tablespoon virgin olive oil

1 tablespoon chilli powder

1 tablespoon garlic powder

6 tablespoons lime juice

A pinch of salt

First step is to sterilise a large jar. Gently fry the garlic in the oil for one minute. Add the rest of the ingredients and boil gently for about 20 minutes in a covered pan. Leave to cool then liquidise. Bring to boil again, take off heat and pour into the jar. Leave to cool, then put the lid on.

Chorizo, Tomato, Lime and Chilli Tapas

Ingredients:

300gm chorizo

500gm cherry tomatoes cut in half

5 cloves garlic, crushed

2 red bird's eye chillies, thinly sliced

1 tablespoon virgin olive oil

Handful of fresh basil, shredded

Half a cup of tomato, chilli, lime and garlic sauce.

Salt and pepper.

Slice chorizo 5mm thick. Gently fry in oil, turning over all the time, for 5 minutes. Add garlic and chilli then fry for another 30 seconds. Add tomatoes, seasoning and basil. Cook for another 8 minutes, still on a gentle - medium heat whilst stirring constantly. Serve with a hunk of warm bread.

*With thanks to Jude Calvert-Toulmin

Summer Bacon and Egg Salad with Hollandaise sauce

Summer Bacon and Egg Salad with Hollandaise sauce

It’s been one of those days. No time to shop, late home due to a cheeky Mohito with the girls after work, nothing exciting in the fridge and no inclination to produce the man-size meal my husband expects. I want a light supper, but I must conjure up something that will appeal to our very different appetites.

I have spent years trying to encourage my spouse to eat green food, and become particularly adept at trickery. A slight of hand, and I can fool my chap to believe that he is eating manly fare, not rabbit fodder. This month’s recipe is a magical warm garden salad that just sings of summer, rustled up from refrigerator basics. Abracadabra, we’ll have bacon and eggs, with a twist.

Ingredients (serves 2)

A selection of green vegetables

2 large eggs (sauce)

2 large eggs (for poaching)

10 ml of lemon juice

10 ml of white wine vinegar

4 oz butter

4 rashers of streaky bacon

Method:

Start with a melange of green vegetables. I chose garden peas and broad beans, freshly podded, the last of the summer asparagus, and fine beans. Spinach or tender-stem broccoli also work well.  Lightly boil or steam, then set aside.

Crisp the streaky bacon under the grill.

For your next trick, rustle up a hollandaise sauce. Now I am guessing that this is the point that you throw your hands into the air with frustration and curse me for telling you that this is an easy dish. Well, hollandaise is fairly straightforward, and certainly quick. I do not bother with a Bain Marie and hand-whisking until my wrist cramps; I use a blender. The doyenne of foolproof cookery, Delia Smith, swears by this method and I cannot argue with the UK’s best selling cookery author.

Place 2 large egg yolks in a blender and blitz for a minute. Heat 10 ml of white wine vinegar, 10 ml of lemon juice in a small pan until simmering point, then slowly add into the blender. Turn the blender off. Melt 4 oz of butter in the pan until the butter foams; do not allow it to brown. At this point add a pinch of salt and pepper. Turn the blender back on and add the butter in the slowest trickle possible. Make sure all the sauce has been incorporated. You will now have a smooth, thickened hollandaise. If this scares you, Waitrose sell it ready made.

Now poach an egg. As the sauce is creamy and wet, I prefer to take mine to the point just short of firm, but cook to your preference (my husband will settle for nothing less than a runny yolk.)

Plate up: Vegetables, topped with hollandaise, some bacon, and the egg as a final fanfare.

Ingredients (serves 2)

A selection of green vegetables

2 large eggs (sauce)

2 large eggs (poaching)

10 ml lemon juice

10 ml white wine vinegar

4 oz butter

4 rashers of streaky bacon

Very Berry Jubilee Trifle

Very Berry Jubilee Trifle

Is there anything more brazenly British than a trifle ?  Celebrations seem almost incomplete without this creamy, opulent pudding.  I love trifle; it’s naughty but nice.

Trifle is imbedded in my earliest memories; birthday parties, Christmas and special treats.  Does ‘Dream Topping’ and ‘Hundreds and Thousands’ ring any bells ?  But a proper homemade trifle is the food of the Gods. I’ve been known to tuck into leftovers at midnight; I may even have eaten it for breakfast on occasion.

The first trifle recipe dates from 1596; consisting of a sweetened ginger and rosewater scented cream.  Custard and sponge was added in the mid 17th Century.  Some purists insist that a trifle should never be made with a jelly, however 100 years later gelatin appeared in recipes so I think either version is acceptable and equally traditional.  If children are going to consume the trifle, a layer of fruit jelly is a welcome addition (although you might be wise to ignore the booze).

There is something rather regal about this dessert.  Even Queen Victoria was a lover of trifles and they were often served at Royal banquets.  A recent survey suggested that 37% of households intended to serve trifle at their Jubilee celebration.  Maybe this is not the most novel or original option, but it’s certainly a popular one.

So dig out the bunting from last year’s Royal Wedding, raise a commemorative glass of Pimm’s and embrace the theme: God Save the Queen.

You will need:

A pretty glass bowl

Boudoir biscuits

Chambord liqueur

A punnet of frozen raspberries or assorted berries

For the custard


Double cream 600ml


1 x Vanilla pod 


6
x egg yolks

3 x
tbsp Caster sugar

1 x tbsp Cornflour

To decorate


Whipping cream 750ml

Blueberries

Strawberries

The first step is to make the custard.  Warm the double cream and the vanilla pod in a saucepan on a gentle heat until almost boiling. Set aside, cover, and leave for 10 minutes.

In a separate bowl, blend the egg yolks, sugar and cornflour then whisk until pale.  Pour in the warmed cream, removing the vanilla pod, and stir constantly.  Transfer to the saucepan in which you heated the cream, continue to stir over a low heat, and keep stirring until the custard warms and thickens.  Remove and allow to cool.

Line your serving bowl with the boudoir biscuits, and throw in half of the frozen fruit.  Slice a few strawberries to decorate the sides of the bowl.  Add a generous amount of the Chambord liqueur over the fruit and biscuits.  Heat the remainder of the fruit with a couple of spoonfuls of sugar and another splash of the liqueur and heat until it become a loose, slightly jammy compote, and spoon into the bowl over the frozen fruit.

Add a layer of cooled custard, and top with whipped cream.  Decorate with strawberries and blueberries in the design of the Union Flag.

Chill, and try hard to resist eating immediately.

Review - Le Beaujolais Cirencester

Le Beaujolais – Cirencester

After weeks of red, white and blue ‘Jubilee Mania’, eating British and Commonwealth inspired food in abundance, you may have forgotten that our near neighbours gave us the building blocks of our contemporary tastes in cookery. No cuisine is more influential than French.

Once-upon-a-time, traditional Bistro’s were to be found in every town, but with on-going trends towards international influences, homely French fare has become hard to find.  Of course there are “Franglais” style chains and expensive fine dining but I mourn the lack of authentic French restaurants offering “La Cuisine de Maman”. Thankfully, I was introduced to Le Beaujolais.

The two-floor establishment on Castle Street is simply and patriotically decorated. Tricolour bunting and a map of France adorn the wall. This is full-on Français, slightly stereotypical without feeling like a theme park. The restaurant was reassuringly packed with locals, including a Frenchman at the next table. I greedily eyed up his heaped bowl of bouillabaisse and resisted pouncing on him, demanding mussels and fish, topped with Sauce Rouille.

I ordered Cuisses de Grenouille (Frogs Legs) and a couple of fine specimens were placed before me, dripping in garlic parsley butter. Anyone who tells the uninitiated that Frogs Legs taste of chicken is being inaccurate in their description; the flavour is far more delicate. Mr. N chose an exemplary Duck and Fois Gras terrine that was a revelation in taste. Packed with dense, foresty herb notes, this was a very superior Pate.

My main course of Calves Liver was perfectly cooked – pink – and the deep sticky jus took my taste buds on a trip to Paris and back. I recommend this as a standout selection. My husband was seduced by a dish of the day; Veal in cream, mushrooms and white wine. Robust and rustic, it hit the spot but he still cast an envious eye at my plate.

We quaffed a hearty Haute Vallee de L’Aude “Les Volet” (Malbec) which matched our meal perfectly. As a total Francophile, I entered the spirit of the occasion and was happily humming La Vie en Rose, in the style of Edith Piaf, between courses.

Pudding was an intense Chocolate Mousse, as recommended to me by Jenny, the Floor Manager. I like to challenge staff to recommend a dessert; they have taste-tested their way through the menu. My instinct was right; the mousse was outstanding. Mr. N. chose Mille Feuilles, layers of light sweet pastry sandwiched together with cream and fruit, and pronounced it delicious.

Le Beaujolais opened two years ago yet has the atmosphere of a well-established eatery. The owners are Eric (Chef) and Kiean (Front of House) and their partnership is one of long-standing, having worked together in France for many years. The Menu Prix-Fixe is £13.50/£15.75 for 2 and 3 courses respectively. This features seasonal favourites with typical French flair, such as Pheasant Casserole and Grey Mullet with Ratatouille. They also host “Club des Amis”, a regular event to practice French language skills whilst enjoying delicious food. Two courses cost £12.50.

Verdict: The philosophy at Le Beaujolais is “food cooked with love and care” and this is reflected on the plate. A simple menu, but not as artless as it seems, relying on complexity, layers of flavour and traditional techniques. An authentic, welcoming French restaurant.

Review Hotel du Vin Cheltenham

HOTEL DU VIN

I have a real affection for the Hotel du Vin in Cheltenham; it’s a beautiful building, luxuriously decorated, so elegant and stylish. Fortunately it is also on my doorstep.

HdV came to town five years ago, and quickly became something of an institution, blending in seamlessly with the fashionable and historical Montpellier sensibility. I have eaten there regularly because the service is slick and the food is so reliable. The only thing that frustrates me is that I have no valid excuse to book a room, but there is such a relaxed atmosphere I can momentarily forget that I am not an overnight guest, and lounge the hours away in a comfortable chair after dinner, without outstaying my welcome. The bar staff appear to anticipate my needs with telepathic skill, and a perfectly mixed drink is never more than a raised eyebrow away; but let me tear myself away from the tranquil lounge and my cocktail long enough to recommend the food.

The purpose of my recent visit was to try the new menu, which is a “back to our roots” affair focusing on Bistro classics; the tried and tested favourites that feature throughout the chain. French in origin, these are the dishes that sit best with the excellent wine offer for which Hotel du Vin is celebrated. In practical terms the philosophy is to allow the hotels to offer consistency from the du Vin family to the customer nationwide, but essentially allows the individual Chef to work with the best available local ingredients, to make classics as tasty as they can possibly be. The menu is selected to happily compliment the super-impressive wine list, but rest assured, the food in the Bistro is not the poor relation in any way.

Whilst perusing the menu, we ordered an aperitif. My request was for a cocktail of the bartender’s choosing (I like to be surprised). We were presented with deconstructed champagne cocktails; a flute of the sparkly stuff served alongside a small glass of super-sweet berry liqueur, which also contained the most delightful miniature wild strawberries.

Taste buds merrily tickled, the first course arrived. I chose a Goats Cheese and Beetroot Salad and Mr. N opted for Dressed Crab. Absolutely tip top on both counts. We had decided to wine match our meal, and left the selection up to the Sommelier, Roberto, who was a superb guide and as knowledgeable as you would expect in such a wine-centric establishment. He chose a Chablis (Domaine Bernard Defaix) for the crab dish, and my goats cheese was paired with a classic N.Z. Sauvignon Blanc.

My main course of Roast Cod on Buttered Leeks with a stunning Salsa Verde was light and flaky, packing a knock-out punch of fragrant Mediterranean herbs. This was paired with a floral, un-oaked Italian Friulano (Bastianich, Colli Orientali del Friuli).  Mr. N chose a dry-aged Fillet Steak, with an acidic, perfectly balanced Sauce Béarnaise, and Roberto selected a low tannic Californian Pinot Noir to accompany the richness of the griddled meat.

We were beginning to feel a little giddy with the attention; a Sommelier that knew what we had ordered food wise, without having to ask, is a joy to be served by. The where, the why, the how he arrived at his choices on our behalf was helpfully explained without a hint of superiority. As the headiness of the grape began to work magic, I got a little carried away and was prompted to discuss the importance of heritage vegetables for ten minutes with my rather bemused husband, who can hold his drink far better than I can.

Puddings often pose a problem for wine matching but we threw down the gauntlet when my husband chose a light as a feather White Chocolate Pave with a strawberry compote. Notoriously difficult to find wines to match, Roberto decided to experiment and brought a glass of Tannat Reserve Marichal, from Uruguay (hints of jam and vanilla) which was spectacular. A perfect pairing. I went for the retro option, and ate a wicked Rhum BaBa, alongside a traditional Muscat de Beaumes de Venise, Domaine de Durban.

It was a splendid meal, albeit enhanced by the glorious grape, and the wine matching experience was an especially enjoyable indulgence. There are not many restaurants that you can play with food and wine pairing so successfully, and with such inspiring results. Service was faultless. The atmosphere is relaxing and unchallenging. I would love to see the Bistro buzzing and fully booked every night, not just with hotel guests, but with local customers too, taking advantage of a super restaurant and surprisingly reasonable prices.

Verdict:  Top-notch wining and dining with a warm, professional welcome. The combination of a skilful chef, a knowledgable Sommelier in Roberto Zanca, and an attractive venue continue to impress me. The Hotel du Vin make every guest feel like a V.I.P.

Chef Profile: Paul Mottram

“Home Grown Food Heroes” are the inspiration behind Paul’s food, combining the best local produce with classic Bistro style cooking. 

Learning his trade in the seafood restaurants in his hometown of Looe in Cornwall, Paul has since travelled the world as a Chef on the QE2 and worked in acclaimed hotels and restaurants across the UK, including time served under the tutelage of my own personal food hero, Nico Ladenis at Chez Nico in Park Lane.

After years of fine dining and exotic food on his travels, Paul Mottram appears to be a relaxed and happy man now he is heading up the brigade at the Hotel du Vin Bistro. Chatting to Paul after service, he is obviously at his most animated and passionate when he is talking about food, specifically locally sourced and perfectly prepared produce. He uses mushrooms from the Forest of Dean, ducks from a family run business in the Wye Forest, salmon smoked to a bespoke Hotel du Vin cure.

“My ethos is simple food, done really well. At home I’ll cook a big casserole or lasagne, put the pot in the middle of the table, and enjoy with a loaf of freshly cooked bread. It’s how everyone ate when I lived overseas. Professionally, I love to cook with fish, on the bone of course. You can’t beat Lemon Sole; our cool waters make for the best Sole in the world. That is the kind of food that I have introduced on the Plat du Jour menu; an unpretentious French Onion Soup, followed by Sole and maybe a Tarte au Citron.”

2 or 3 course Lunch menu £12.95 and £14.95 respectively

Salted Caramel Choc Chip Brownies and Vanilla Bean Caramel Sauce

Salted Caramel Choc Chip Brownies and Vanilla Bean Caramel Sauce

One of my foodie obsessions in recent years has been Salted Caramel.  I noticed it creeping onto menus and cookery shows several years ago, then a few chocolate, salt and caramel combinations started to appear on the supermarket shelves and my life was complete.

I’ve since added a wonderful Caramel Sauce to my cooking repertoire - I often use it as a topping for Vanilla ice-cream.  However a sauce needs a plate mate, so I have been experimenting with tray bakes and brownies.  This is the nicest recipe that I found and it incorporates the caramel sauce as an ingredient.

The original recipe used a sauce made from melted shop bought soft toffees but I prefer to make my own.  If you choose to cheat, use 300g of soft toffees with three teaspoons of cream, microwaved for 2 minutes (stir every 20 seconds).

Ingredients Caramel Sauce

225 g granulated sugar

295 ml double cream

1/4 tsp sea salt

1 tsp vanilla extract

1 vanilla pod

Method

Heat the sugar over a low heat.  When the sugar begins to bubble and melt around the edges, use a heatproof spatula to push the sugar towards the centre of the pan.  Continue to stir gently until all the sugar has melted. Once the caramel reaches a deep amber colour, quickly remove the pan from the heat.  Take care not to overcook; a burnt sauce is bitter, unpleasant and pretty much unusable.

Pour in half of the cream, whilst whisking hard (the sauce will bubble actively).  Stir until incorporated, and then whisk in the remaining cream. Stir in the vanilla extract, seeds from the pod and the salt. 

If any hard sugar has formed, stir the caramel over a very low heat until the hardened pieces have melted and you have a smooth sauce.

Decant any leftover sauce into jars and store in the ‘fridge.

Ingredients Brownies

315 g plain flour


1/2 tsp table salt


1/2 tsp baking powder

175 g butter, melted, cooled

175 g light brown sugar


100 g granulated sugar


1 large egg


1 large egg yolk


2 teaspoons vanilla extract


200 g chocolate chips
(this can be expensive so I chop bars of chocolate into chunks by hand)

Caramel sauce (see recipe)

Sea salt, for sprinkling

Method

Prepare by preheating oven to 170 C and lining a deep sided 11” tray with baking parchment.  Mix flour, table salt and baking powder.  In a separate bowl mix butter and sugars, then add eggs and vanilla and mix a little more.  Add flour and combine, then stir in chocolate chips.

Put half the cookie dough in the pan, then top with a layer of caramel sauce, sprinkled with sea salt.  Add the additional dough until covered, and a little more sea salt on top.

Bake for half an hour and allow to cool a little.

Serve the brownies warm with good quality Vanilla ice-cream, drizzled with  Caramel Sauce.

REVIEW : THE SUFFOLK KITCHEN - CHELTENHAM

Seasonal food at The Suffolk Kitchen……Ali Nightingale finds the restaurant has all the right ingredients.

It takes a bold and confident caterer, one who knows his onions, to open a new restaurant in a town that is brimming with eateries of all descriptions, but Cheltenham is lucky to have Simon Davies raising his head above the economic parapet, for he is a man with his finger on the pulse of ethical food trends.

Whilst many restaurants pay lip service to seasonal and local produce, it is the central ethos behind his recently opened Suffolk Kitchen, at the heart of every dish.  This is not just a fashionable food philosophy; any chef worth their salt knows that the best tastes are coaxed from food without air miles, fresh from the local terrain.  The Suffolk Kitchen also source meat reared within shouting distance of the Cotswold Hills, which benefits the local economy.  

I was impressed by the ‘Brit Crop’ sensibility of the menu, but there was also a definite hint of European flair added to the indigenous ingredients.  Starters included a soufflé made with Hereford Hop Cheese, and Ox Cheek with an oyster reduction and radish salad (Beef and Oyster is such an Olde English combination, yet this assembly of ingredients was modern to the max).  The clever balance of traditional and contemporary British cooking is what makes the Suffolk Kitchen a stand-out establishment for me.

Mr. N got his selection spot on, homing in on the Pigeon Breast and wild garlic blini, served with red wine jus.  I cheekily pilfered half of his portion; one bite was just not enough.  The pigeon was moist, delicately gamey, with the almost liver like texture that a good chef can achieve when the cooking is timed perfectly.  The blini pancake was light as a cloud, with a gentle hint of wild garlic.  I asked Simon where they sourced the herb – I can never find it - and was informed that it was foraged that morning from a local green space.  Now that is proactive regional sourcing at its best.  I chose a simple seasonal cauliflower soup, which was given another textural dimension with the addition of Simon Weaver (Artisan Cheese-maker) Blue Brie profiteroles.

The Chef’s signature pork tenderloin did not disappoint; I have never eaten such a tender hog.  This was served with a black pudding mash, but the star of the show was (as always) on my husband’s plate.  His fillet steak was perfect, but the accompanying little choux puffs stuffed with Hereford snails were memorable and exquisite.

Puddings were a delight, and I was not surprised to find out that chef Gareth Blackmore was a pastry specialist.  Top marks for the homemade white chocolate ice-cream.

We loved the ambience of the restaurant; a smart yet homely space.  Service was attentive and helpful, linens are crisp and white, the wine list is superb value (I applaud SK selling English wines from the local Three Choirs vineyard) and the set menu available at lunchtime and early doors is easy on the pocket at £14.95 for 3 courses, including a glass of wine.

Verdict: A relaxed atmosphere and affordable, exciting menu is a winning combination.  A cut-above the usual Bistro experience.  The fresh and local produce in the hands of a skilled chef delivers on flavour, concept and style.  Highly recommended.