Summer Bacon and Egg Salad with Hollandaise sauce

Summer Bacon and Egg Salad with Hollandaise sauce

It’s been one of those days. No time to shop, late home due to a cheeky Mohito with the girls after work, nothing exciting in the fridge and no inclination to produce the man-size meal my husband expects. I want a light supper, but I must conjure up something that will appeal to our very different appetites.

I have spent years trying to encourage my spouse to eat green food, and become particularly adept at trickery. A slight of hand, and I can fool my chap to believe that he is eating manly fare, not rabbit fodder. This month’s recipe is a magical warm garden salad that just sings of summer, rustled up from refrigerator basics. Abracadabra, we’ll have bacon and eggs, with a twist.

Ingredients (serves 2)

A selection of green vegetables

2 large eggs (sauce)

2 large eggs (for poaching)

10 ml of lemon juice

10 ml of white wine vinegar

4 oz butter

4 rashers of streaky bacon

Method:

Start with a melange of green vegetables. I chose garden peas and broad beans, freshly podded, the last of the summer asparagus, and fine beans. Spinach or tender-stem broccoli also work well.  Lightly boil or steam, then set aside.

Crisp the streaky bacon under the grill.

For your next trick, rustle up a hollandaise sauce. Now I am guessing that this is the point that you throw your hands into the air with frustration and curse me for telling you that this is an easy dish. Well, hollandaise is fairly straightforward, and certainly quick. I do not bother with a Bain Marie and hand-whisking until my wrist cramps; I use a blender. The doyenne of foolproof cookery, Delia Smith, swears by this method and I cannot argue with the UK’s best selling cookery author.

Place 2 large egg yolks in a blender and blitz for a minute. Heat 10 ml of white wine vinegar, 10 ml of lemon juice in a small pan until simmering point, then slowly add into the blender. Turn the blender off. Melt 4 oz of butter in the pan until the butter foams; do not allow it to brown. At this point add a pinch of salt and pepper. Turn the blender back on and add the butter in the slowest trickle possible. Make sure all the sauce has been incorporated. You will now have a smooth, thickened hollandaise. If this scares you, Waitrose sell it ready made.

Now poach an egg. As the sauce is creamy and wet, I prefer to take mine to the point just short of firm, but cook to your preference (my husband will settle for nothing less than a runny yolk.)

Plate up: Vegetables, topped with hollandaise, some bacon, and the egg as a final fanfare.

Ingredients (serves 2)

A selection of green vegetables

2 large eggs (sauce)

2 large eggs (poaching)

10 ml lemon juice

10 ml white wine vinegar

4 oz butter

4 rashers of streaky bacon

Very Berry Jubilee Trifle

Very Berry Jubilee Trifle

Is there anything more brazenly British than a trifle ?  Celebrations seem almost incomplete without this creamy, opulent pudding.  I love trifle; it’s naughty but nice.

Trifle is imbedded in my earliest memories; birthday parties, Christmas and special treats.  Does ‘Dream Topping’ and ‘Hundreds and Thousands’ ring any bells ?  But a proper homemade trifle is the food of the Gods. I’ve been known to tuck into leftovers at midnight; I may even have eaten it for breakfast on occasion.

The first trifle recipe dates from 1596; consisting of a sweetened ginger and rosewater scented cream.  Custard and sponge was added in the mid 17th Century.  Some purists insist that a trifle should never be made with a jelly, however 100 years later gelatin appeared in recipes so I think either version is acceptable and equally traditional.  If children are going to consume the trifle, a layer of fruit jelly is a welcome addition (although you might be wise to ignore the booze).

There is something rather regal about this dessert.  Even Queen Victoria was a lover of trifles and they were often served at Royal banquets.  A recent survey suggested that 37% of households intended to serve trifle at their Jubilee celebration.  Maybe this is not the most novel or original option, but it’s certainly a popular one.

So dig out the bunting from last year’s Royal Wedding, raise a commemorative glass of Pimm’s and embrace the theme: God Save the Queen.

You will need:

A pretty glass bowl

Boudoir biscuits

Chambord liqueur

A punnet of frozen raspberries or assorted berries

For the custard


Double cream 600ml


1 x Vanilla pod 


6
x egg yolks

3 x
tbsp Caster sugar

1 x tbsp Cornflour

To decorate


Whipping cream 750ml

Blueberries

Strawberries

The first step is to make the custard.  Warm the double cream and the vanilla pod in a saucepan on a gentle heat until almost boiling. Set aside, cover, and leave for 10 minutes.

In a separate bowl, blend the egg yolks, sugar and cornflour then whisk until pale.  Pour in the warmed cream, removing the vanilla pod, and stir constantly.  Transfer to the saucepan in which you heated the cream, continue to stir over a low heat, and keep stirring until the custard warms and thickens.  Remove and allow to cool.

Line your serving bowl with the boudoir biscuits, and throw in half of the frozen fruit.  Slice a few strawberries to decorate the sides of the bowl.  Add a generous amount of the Chambord liqueur over the fruit and biscuits.  Heat the remainder of the fruit with a couple of spoonfuls of sugar and another splash of the liqueur and heat until it become a loose, slightly jammy compote, and spoon into the bowl over the frozen fruit.

Add a layer of cooled custard, and top with whipped cream.  Decorate with strawberries and blueberries in the design of the Union Flag.

Chill, and try hard to resist eating immediately.

Review - Le Beaujolais Cirencester

Le Beaujolais – Cirencester

After weeks of red, white and blue ‘Jubilee Mania’, eating British and Commonwealth inspired food in abundance, you may have forgotten that our near neighbours gave us the building blocks of our contemporary tastes in cookery. No cuisine is more influential than French.

Once-upon-a-time, traditional Bistro’s were to be found in every town, but with on-going trends towards international influences, homely French fare has become hard to find.  Of course there are “Franglais” style chains and expensive fine dining but I mourn the lack of authentic French restaurants offering “La Cuisine de Maman”. Thankfully, I was introduced to Le Beaujolais.

The two-floor establishment on Castle Street is simply and patriotically decorated. Tricolour bunting and a map of France adorn the wall. This is full-on Français, slightly stereotypical without feeling like a theme park. The restaurant was reassuringly packed with locals, including a Frenchman at the next table. I greedily eyed up his heaped bowl of bouillabaisse and resisted pouncing on him, demanding mussels and fish, topped with Sauce Rouille.

I ordered Cuisses de Grenouille (Frogs Legs) and a couple of fine specimens were placed before me, dripping in garlic parsley butter. Anyone who tells the uninitiated that Frogs Legs taste of chicken is being inaccurate in their description; the flavour is far more delicate. Mr. N chose an exemplary Duck and Fois Gras terrine that was a revelation in taste. Packed with dense, foresty herb notes, this was a very superior Pate.

My main course of Calves Liver was perfectly cooked – pink – and the deep sticky jus took my taste buds on a trip to Paris and back. I recommend this as a standout selection. My husband was seduced by a dish of the day; Veal in cream, mushrooms and white wine. Robust and rustic, it hit the spot but he still cast an envious eye at my plate.

We quaffed a hearty Haute Vallee de L’Aude “Les Volet” (Malbec) which matched our meal perfectly. As a total Francophile, I entered the spirit of the occasion and was happily humming La Vie en Rose, in the style of Edith Piaf, between courses.

Pudding was an intense Chocolate Mousse, as recommended to me by Jenny, the Floor Manager. I like to challenge staff to recommend a dessert; they have taste-tested their way through the menu. My instinct was right; the mousse was outstanding. Mr. N. chose Mille Feuilles, layers of light sweet pastry sandwiched together with cream and fruit, and pronounced it delicious.

Le Beaujolais opened two years ago yet has the atmosphere of a well-established eatery. The owners are Eric (Chef) and Kiean (Front of House) and their partnership is one of long-standing, having worked together in France for many years. The Menu Prix-Fixe is £13.50/£15.75 for 2 and 3 courses respectively. This features seasonal favourites with typical French flair, such as Pheasant Casserole and Grey Mullet with Ratatouille. They also host “Club des Amis”, a regular event to practice French language skills whilst enjoying delicious food. Two courses cost £12.50.

Verdict: The philosophy at Le Beaujolais is “food cooked with love and care” and this is reflected on the plate. A simple menu, but not as artless as it seems, relying on complexity, layers of flavour and traditional techniques. An authentic, welcoming French restaurant.

Review Hotel du Vin Cheltenham

HOTEL DU VIN

I have a real affection for the Hotel du Vin in Cheltenham; it’s a beautiful building, luxuriously decorated, so elegant and stylish. Fortunately it is also on my doorstep.

HdV came to town five years ago, and quickly became something of an institution, blending in seamlessly with the fashionable and historical Montpellier sensibility. I have eaten there regularly because the service is slick and the food is so reliable. The only thing that frustrates me is that I have no valid excuse to book a room, but there is such a relaxed atmosphere I can momentarily forget that I am not an overnight guest, and lounge the hours away in a comfortable chair after dinner, without outstaying my welcome. The bar staff appear to anticipate my needs with telepathic skill, and a perfectly mixed drink is never more than a raised eyebrow away; but let me tear myself away from the tranquil lounge and my cocktail long enough to recommend the food.

The purpose of my recent visit was to try the new menu, which is a “back to our roots” affair focusing on Bistro classics; the tried and tested favourites that feature throughout the chain. French in origin, these are the dishes that sit best with the excellent wine offer for which Hotel du Vin is celebrated. In practical terms the philosophy is to allow the hotels to offer consistency from the du Vin family to the customer nationwide, but essentially allows the individual Chef to work with the best available local ingredients, to make classics as tasty as they can possibly be. The menu is selected to happily compliment the super-impressive wine list, but rest assured, the food in the Bistro is not the poor relation in any way.

Whilst perusing the menu, we ordered an aperitif. My request was for a cocktail of the bartender’s choosing (I like to be surprised). We were presented with deconstructed champagne cocktails; a flute of the sparkly stuff served alongside a small glass of super-sweet berry liqueur, which also contained the most delightful miniature wild strawberries.

Taste buds merrily tickled, the first course arrived. I chose a Goats Cheese and Beetroot Salad and Mr. N opted for Dressed Crab. Absolutely tip top on both counts. We had decided to wine match our meal, and left the selection up to the Sommelier, Roberto, who was a superb guide and as knowledgeable as you would expect in such a wine-centric establishment. He chose a Chablis (Domaine Bernard Defaix) for the crab dish, and my goats cheese was paired with a classic N.Z. Sauvignon Blanc.

My main course of Roast Cod on Buttered Leeks with a stunning Salsa Verde was light and flaky, packing a knock-out punch of fragrant Mediterranean herbs. This was paired with a floral, un-oaked Italian Friulano (Bastianich, Colli Orientali del Friuli).  Mr. N chose a dry-aged Fillet Steak, with an acidic, perfectly balanced Sauce Béarnaise, and Roberto selected a low tannic Californian Pinot Noir to accompany the richness of the griddled meat.

We were beginning to feel a little giddy with the attention; a Sommelier that knew what we had ordered food wise, without having to ask, is a joy to be served by. The where, the why, the how he arrived at his choices on our behalf was helpfully explained without a hint of superiority. As the headiness of the grape began to work magic, I got a little carried away and was prompted to discuss the importance of heritage vegetables for ten minutes with my rather bemused husband, who can hold his drink far better than I can.

Puddings often pose a problem for wine matching but we threw down the gauntlet when my husband chose a light as a feather White Chocolate Pave with a strawberry compote. Notoriously difficult to find wines to match, Roberto decided to experiment and brought a glass of Tannat Reserve Marichal, from Uruguay (hints of jam and vanilla) which was spectacular. A perfect pairing. I went for the retro option, and ate a wicked Rhum BaBa, alongside a traditional Muscat de Beaumes de Venise, Domaine de Durban.

It was a splendid meal, albeit enhanced by the glorious grape, and the wine matching experience was an especially enjoyable indulgence. There are not many restaurants that you can play with food and wine pairing so successfully, and with such inspiring results. Service was faultless. The atmosphere is relaxing and unchallenging. I would love to see the Bistro buzzing and fully booked every night, not just with hotel guests, but with local customers too, taking advantage of a super restaurant and surprisingly reasonable prices.

Verdict:  Top-notch wining and dining with a warm, professional welcome. The combination of a skilful chef, a knowledgable Sommelier in Roberto Zanca, and an attractive venue continue to impress me. The Hotel du Vin make every guest feel like a V.I.P.

Chef Profile: Paul Mottram

“Home Grown Food Heroes” are the inspiration behind Paul’s food, combining the best local produce with classic Bistro style cooking. 

Learning his trade in the seafood restaurants in his hometown of Looe in Cornwall, Paul has since travelled the world as a Chef on the QE2 and worked in acclaimed hotels and restaurants across the UK, including time served under the tutelage of my own personal food hero, Nico Ladenis at Chez Nico in Park Lane.

After years of fine dining and exotic food on his travels, Paul Mottram appears to be a relaxed and happy man now he is heading up the brigade at the Hotel du Vin Bistro. Chatting to Paul after service, he is obviously at his most animated and passionate when he is talking about food, specifically locally sourced and perfectly prepared produce. He uses mushrooms from the Forest of Dean, ducks from a family run business in the Wye Forest, salmon smoked to a bespoke Hotel du Vin cure.

“My ethos is simple food, done really well. At home I’ll cook a big casserole or lasagne, put the pot in the middle of the table, and enjoy with a loaf of freshly cooked bread. It’s how everyone ate when I lived overseas. Professionally, I love to cook with fish, on the bone of course. You can’t beat Lemon Sole; our cool waters make for the best Sole in the world. That is the kind of food that I have introduced on the Plat du Jour menu; an unpretentious French Onion Soup, followed by Sole and maybe a Tarte au Citron.”

2 or 3 course Lunch menu £12.95 and £14.95 respectively